When he opened Union Square Cafe in 1985, Danny Meyer changed the American restaurant landscape. The combination of upscale food and unpretentious but focused, low-key service sparked a revolution. Today executive chef Michael Romano still draws devotees (reservations remain hard to get) with his crowd-pleasing menu. Mahogany moldings outline white walls hung with bright modern paintings; in addition to the three main dining areas, there's a long bar perfect for solo diners. The cuisine is American with a thick Italian accent: for example, the signature tuna burger with Asian slaw can land on the same table as homemade gnocchi. Reservations essential. Subway: L, N, Q, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St./Union Sq.