Chef-owner Jimmy Bradley oversees this comfortable neighborhood restaurant. Seasonal appetizers include sautéed zucchini with almonds and pecorino, steamed and roasted mussels with braised octopus, and coriander-crusted veal sweetbreads with rhubarb stewed with red onion. Satisfying entrées include sautéed skate with baby spinach and grapefruit salad with a champagne-orange emulsion, shell steak and golden potatoes with fennel and cabernet sauce, and pan-fried mustard-crusted trout with burst cherry tomatoes. The service is friendly and welcoming, and the wine list is reasonably priced. Subway: C, E to 23rd St.