The shabby-chic dining room with pressed-tin walls, plain wooden chairs, and burgundy banquettes provides a backdrop for the attractive crowd that makes this place hum. The food is interesting without being fussy, well suited to the noisy space where people-watching can often distract you from your plate. But those who like to eat will have no trouble focusing on such dishes as five-pepper steak au poivre in cognac cream sauce or sautéed halibut over a sundried tomato risotto. The hamburger's pretty good, too. The back garden is a great spot for alfresco summer dining; in winter it's canopied and heated. Reservations essential. Subway: 6 to Spring St.