This small neighborhood restaurant keeps a low profile; nevertheless, insiders know it's a serious place to dine. Although the menu changes seasonally, such items as shrimp cocktail, oysters, and organic pan-roasted chicken are mainstays. Thanks to congenial and charming host Tony Fortuna, the red-color dining room is always comfortable. The lounge is often crowded with well-heeled locals. Subway: 6 to 77th St.