Chef and restaurant mogul Charlie Palmer (Aureole, Métrazur) made an astute move when he shut down his restaurant Alva to open streamlined Kitchen 22. Where a single entrée once cost about $25, now you get a three-course prix-fixe for the same price. A young, professional crowd waits up to 45 minutes on weeknights (reservations aren't accepted) for the creative, up-to-the-minute dishes. Choose from five starters and five entrées -- say, braised veal crepe with roasted red pepper and mushroom ragout followed by toothsome grilled hanger steak with baby spinach and naan bread bruschetta. Homey desserts like white-chocolate pudding sit in big bowls on a table, and your waiter will scoop up as many of them as you want. The '50s airport-lounge look of teal booths and white plastic chairs is so chic, you'll feel like you should be paying more for dinner. Reservations not accepted. Subway: R, W, 6 to 23rd St.