Owners David Page and Barbara Shinn have re-created that mythic heartland home in this sliver of a storefront restaurant, where the walls are clapboard and the floorboards wide. Page's Midwestern background sets the menu's tone: perennial favorites include cornmeal-fried oysters, moist roast chicken, and juicy pork rib chop with mashed potatoes and barbecue sauce. And what's a home-cooked meal without some creamy chocolate pudding? Breakfast is served during the week, and brunch on weekends. Reservations essential. Subway: A, B, C, D, E, F, V to W. 4th St.