Updated all-American cuisine, affordable prices, a friendly bar, and a room that alludes to the WPA style of architecture attract a lively local bar crowd to this former speakeasy on one of Greenwich Village's most charming, tucked-away streets. Order one of the small plates, such as potato pancakes with scallion-spiked sour cream, for starters, or make an entire meal by ordering several of the sides. Entrées -- including the center-cut pork chops and sautéed rainbow trout fillet -- may be ordered by themselves or with a choice of soup or salad for a couple of dollars more. Reservations essential. Subway: A, B, C, D, E, F, V to W. 4th St./Washington Sq.; 1, 9 to Christopher St.-Sheridan Sq.