This ever-popular restaurant is at the top of many New Yorkers' "favorite restaurant" list. In front, the first-come, first-served tavern presents a somewhat lighter menu than the main dining room, prepared in the wood-burning oven on view, plus a menu of small dishes and desserts between lunch and dinner service. The more formal dining room has a prix-fixe American table d'hôte menu carefully conceived by an executive chef. For $68 (plus an occasional supplement), choose from seasonal dishes such as roasted cod in a sauce of cèpes or a trio of beef sirloin, short ribs, and duck foie gras. Reservations essential. Jacket required. Subway: 6, R, W to 23rd St.