This quintessentially downtown restaurant -- stylish waiters, loud music, and dark, horseshoe-shape banquettes -- remains a primo option in the neighborhood. Chef Sam DeMarco oversees an open kitchen that makes everything from the bread to the mayonnaise. You are sure to find seafood tacos, buffalo "lollipop" chicken wings, and some form of roasted pork. Several fine vintages from the carefully chosen wine list are available by the glass, but the "tiny 'tinis," dwarf martinis in luscious flavors, are the drink of choice at First, where late hours prevail. Reservations essential. Subway: F, V to 2nd Ave.; 6 to Astor Pl.