Chef Waldy Malouf has established himself as a past-master of grilling in this multilevel restaurant, where meat, fish, and even vegetables are seared and roasted to a succulent crisp juiciness in enormous wood-fired ovens. Just about everything on the seasonal menu sounds delectable, but particularly delicious are lamb T-bone, Catskill mountain trout, and dry-aged sirloin with red wine and shallot confit. The crusty bread, baked on the premises, is especially delicious. Although the atmosphere is midtown business, the simple, almost rustic food delights people from all walks of life. Subway: R, W to 5th Ave.