Inadequate public-transportation systems have been an L.A. problem for decades. That said, many local trips can be made, with time and patience, by bus. In certain cases, it may be your best option; for example, visiting the Getty Center with no prior parking reservation, going to Universal Studios and/or the adjacent CityWalk, or venturing into downtown. There's also a special Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) bus that goes between Union Station and Dodger Stadium for Friday night home games. It doesn't save money, but it can save you time and parking-related stress. For the fastest MTA service, look for the red-and-white Metro Rapid buses; these stop less frequently and are able to extend green lights. At this writing, there were six Rapid routes including routes on Wilshire and Vermont boulevards; over the next few years more Rapid routes will be added.

The Metropolitan Transit Authority DASH (Downtown Area Short Hop) minibuses cover six different circular routes in Hollywood, Mid-Wilshire, and the downtown area. The buses stop every two blocks or so. The Santa Monica Municipal Bus Line, also known as the Big Blue Bus, is a pleasant and inexpensive way to move around the Westside, where the MTA lines leave off. There's also an express bus to and from downtown L.A., and a shuttle bus, the Tide Shuttle, which runs between Main Street and the Third Street Promenade and stops at hotels along the way. Culver CityBus Lines run six routes through Culver City. Smoking is never allowed in the L.A. public transportation system.

Paying

The fares vary depending on the line, but start at 25¢ for DASH buses and go as high as $2.50 for certain MTA rides. You can pay your fare in cash on MTA, Santa Monica, and Culver City buses, but you must have exact change. You can buy MTA passes and tokens throughout the city at MTA customer centers and some convenience or grocery stores. Metrocards or tokens for the Santa Monica buses can be bought at local libraries and retailers. Call or check the pertinent bus Web site for the retail location nearest you.

Bus Information

California Smart Traveler (PHONE: 800/266-6883, www.smart-traveler.com).

Culver CityBus Lines (PHONE: 310/253-6500, www.culvercity.org).

DASH (PHONE: 213/626-4455 or 310/808-2273, www.ladottransit.com/dash).

Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) (PHONE: 213/626-4455 or 800/COMMUTE, www.mta.net).

Santa Monica Municipal Bus Line (PHONE: 310/451-5444, www.bigbluebus.com).

Navigating Los Angeles

If you're used to urban driving, you shouldn't have too much trouble drving in Los Angeles, but if you're unused to driving in big cities, it can be unnerving to do so here. Get a good map and remember a few of the pointers we list here, and you should be able to avoid confusion. Be aware that a number of major streets have similar-sounding names (Beverly Drive and Beverly Boulevard, or numbered streets north to south downtown and east to west in Hollywood, West Hollywood, and Beverly Hills) or exactly the same name (San Vicente Boulevard in West L.A., Brentwood, Santa Monica, and in West Hollywood). Also, some smaller streets seem to exist intermittently for miles, so unless you have good directions, you should use major streets rather than try for an alternative that is actually blocked by a dead end or detours, like the side streets off Sunset Boulevard.

Try to get clear directions and stick to them. A good companion if you'll be driving a lot is the Thomas Guide, a hefty, spiral-bound street guide and directory that is published annually. A Thomas Guide is available for both Los Angeles and Orange County and can be purchased at major bookstores, grocery stores, drug stores, and other retail outlets.

If you become confused while driving on the freeway, remember the rule of thumb: even-numbered freeways run east and west, odd-numbered freeways run north and south.

Car Rental

In Los Angeles, it's not a question of whether wheels are a hindrance or a convenience: they're a necessity. When renting a vehicle, keep in mind that you'll likely be spending a lot of time in it, and options like a CD player or power windows that might seem unnecessary may make a significant difference in your day-to-day comfort.

Major-chain rates in L.A. begin at $29 a day and $125 a week, plus 8.25% sales tax. Luxury and sport utility vehicles start at $49 a day. Note that the major agencies offer services for travelers with disabilities, such as hand-controls, for little or no extra cost.

Beverly Hills Budget Car Rental, with six locations, offers the widest range of vehicle rentals, including Hummers, Ferraris, convertibles, vans, and economy cars. Daydreaming of a restored classic Chevy or the latest Porsche? Beverly Hills Rent-A-Car, a rental facility with branches in Santa Monica, Beverly Hills, and near LAX, rents exotics, classic cars, luxury models, economy cars (including Mini Coopers), vans, and SUVs. Midway Car Rental, with five offices on the Westside, in the Valley, and in Mid-Wilshire, has the usual, plus some extralarge vans and, in its "executive class," Lexus, BMW, Mercedes, and so on. Possibly the handiest in the lower-priced range is Enterprise, with two dozen branches in the area (and some have luxury vehicles as well). To go the green route, you can rent an eco-friendly electric or hybrid car through Budget; for more information contact EV Rental Cars.

Major Agencies

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633, www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847; 800/272-5871 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand, www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K., www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia, www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 0870/844-8844 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand, www.hertz.com).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0870/600-6666 in the U.K., www.nationalcar.com).

Local Agencies

Beverly Hills Budget Car Rental (9815 Wilshire Blvd., USA. PHONE: 310/274-9173 or 800/227-7117, www.budgetbeverlyhills.com).

Beverly Hills Rent-A-Car (9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., near LAX, USA. PHONE: 800/479-5996, www.bhrentacar.com).

Enterprise (PHONE: 800/736-8222, www.enterprise.com).

EV Rental Cars (PHONE: 877/387-3682, www.evrental.com).

Midway Car Rental (PHONE: 888/682-0166, www.midwaycarrental.com).

Rent A Wreck (PHONE: 800/535-1391, www.rent-a-wreck.com).

Town Rent A Car (13815 Crenshaw, USA. PHONE: 310/973-6815 or 323/934-4780).

Insurance

When driving a rented car you are generally responsible for any damage to or loss of the vehicle. You also may be liable for any property damage or personal injury that you may cause while driving. Before you rent, see what coverage you already have under the terms of your personal auto-insurance policy and credit cards.

For about $15 to $20 a day, rental companies sell protection, known as a collision- or loss-damage waiver (CDW or LDW), that eliminates your liability for damage to the car; it's always optional and should never be automatically added to your bill. In most states you don't need a CDW if you have personal auto insurance or other liability insurance. Some states, including California, have capped the price of the CDW and LDW. However, make sure you have enough coverage to pay for the car. If you do not have auto insurance or an umbrella policy that covers damage to third parties, purchasing liability insurance and a CDW or LDW is highly recommended.

Requirements

In California you must be 21 and have a valid credit card, often with $200-$300 available credit on it (regardless of how you'll ultimately pay), to rent a car; rates may be higher if you're under 25. There is no upper age limit. You'll pay extra for child seats (about $5 per day), which are compulsory for children under six or who weigh less than 60 pounds, and for additional drivers (as much as $25 a day). Non-U.S. residents will need a reservation voucher, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver, to pick up a car.

Parking

Parking rules are strictly enforced in Los Angeles; illegally parked cars are ticketed or towed very quickly (and the minimum ticket is $35). Parking is generally available in garages or parking lots; some public lots are free all or part of the day; otherwise prices per half hour vary from 25¢ (in the public lots) to $2, or a few dollars to $25 per day. Downtown and Century City garage rates may be as high as $25 an hour, though prices tend to drop on weekends. Sometimes businesses will offer validated parking if you've parked in an affiliated lot; validation will give you free parking for a certain time period. Many restaurants offer valet parking for $3-$5 or an optional tip. Metered parking is also widely available; meter rates vary from 25¢ for 15 minutes in the most heavily trafficked areas to 25¢ for one hour; have a bunch of change available. In some areas, metered parking is free on weekends or on Sundays. Another bonus: if a meter is out of order (for example, if it is flashing the word "FAIL" where the time remaining would appear), parking is free for the posted time limit.

Speaking of posted limits, street parking in L.A. is confusing because of the many and varying restrictions (during the day, only at night, once a week during street-cleaning hours, etc.). When visiting residential areas, be sure to ask your hosts about parking restrictions since signs aren't always easy to find. If you have to park in a restricted space for even the briefest amount of time, put on your emergency blinkers.

When parking in a large lot or parking garage, note the section or level of your parking space. Stadiums, malls, theme parks, and other venues with giant parking areas post signs, but some garages don't have much in the way of indicators.

Road Conditions

Beware of weekday rush-hour traffic, which is heaviest from 7 AM to 10 AM and 3 PM to 7 PM. Both KFWB and KNX have frequent traffic reports; the Los Angeles city Web site has a real-time traffic information map, and the California Highway Patrol has a road conditions line. To encourage car-pooling, some crowded freeways reserve an express lane for cars carrying more than one passenger. Parallel streets can often provide viable alternatives to jam-packed freeways, notably Sepulveda Boulevard for I-405; Venice and Washington boulevards for I-10 from Mid-Wilshire west to the beach; and Ventura Boulevard, Moorpark Street, and/or Riverside Drive for U.S.-101 through the San Fernando Valley. Highway signage is on the whole good but can't substitute for maps and detailed directions.

Fog is generally equated with San Francisco, but the coastline of Southern California does get some pea-soup conditions that are dangerous for drivers. In late 2002, for instance, nearly 200 cars piled up on the Long Beach Freeway due to heavy fog. If you encounter thick fog, slow down, switch on your low beams and fog lights, and watch carefully for the lights of other vehicles. If the fog is extremely heavy, pull over cautiously and wait for it to pass.

Rules of the Road

The speed limit on city streets is 25 mph unless posted otherwise. The speed limit on freeways and highways generally range from 55 to 70 mph. A right turn on a red light after stopping is legal unless posted otherwise, as is a left turn onto an adjoining one-way street. The use of seat belts is required in California. Car seats are required for children under 60 pounds or six years. Drivers found to have a blood-alcohol level higher than 0.08 are subject to arrest.

Your driver's license may not be recognized outside your home country. International driving permits (IDPs) are available from the American and Canadian automobile associations and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association and Royal Automobile Club. These international permits, valid only in conjunction with your regular driver's license, are universally recognized; having one may save you a problem with local authorities.

Don't try to hail a cab on the street in Los Angeles. Instead, phone one of the many taxi companies. The metered rate is $2 per mile, plus a $2 per-fare charge. Taxi rides from LAX have an additional $2.50 surcharge. Be aware that distances between sights in L.A. are vast, so cab fares add up quickly. One relative bargain, though: for a $4 flat fare, up to four passengers may use a taxi to visit downtown attractions within the "One Fare Zone," which is bounded by the Harbor Freeway (I-110) to the west, Main Street to the east, Pico Boulevard to the south, and the Hollywood Freeway (U.S. 101) to the north. On the other end of the price spectrum, limousines come equipped with everything from a full bar and telephone to a hot tub. If you open any L.A.-area yellow pages, the number of limo companies will astound you. Most charge by the hour, with a three-hour minimum.

Limo Companies

ABC Limousine & Sedan Service (PHONE: 310/395-6668 or 888/753-7500).

American Executive (PHONE: 213/250-2121 or 800/927-2020).

Black & White Car & Limousines (PHONE: 800/924-1624).

Chauffeur's Unlimited (PHONE: 310/645-8711 or 888/546-6016, www. chaufusa.com).

Dav El Limousine Co. (PHONE: 310/550-0070 or 800/922-0343, www.davel.com).

First Class (PHONE: 323/756-4894, 310/676-9771, or 818/845-5212, www.first-classlimo.com).

ITS (PHONE: 800/487-4255, www.itsfox.com).

Taxi Companies

Bell Cab (PHONE: 888/235-5222, www.bellcab.com.).

Beverly Hills Cab Co. (PHONE: 800/273-6611).

Checker Cab (PHONE: 800/300-5007).

Independent Cab Co. (PHONE: 800/521-8294, www.taxi4u.com).

United Independent Taxi (PHONE: 800/411-0303 or 800/822-8294).

Yellow Cab/LA Taxi Co-Op (PHONE: 800/200-1085 or 800/200-0011).

Los Angeles is not a city that never sleeps, but through much of the area, business extends well into the evening, especially for the bigger stores and chains and malls. On Monday, certain restaurants, nightclubs, and shops (such as outdoors sports-gear rental stores) are closed.

Museums

Many L.A. museums are closed on Monday and major holidays. However, a few of the preeminent art museums, including the Norton Simon and Los Angeles County Museum of Art, stay open on Monday. Instead, the Norton Simon is closed Tuesday, the Los Angeles County museum on Wednesday. Most museums close around 5 or 6 PM, and most stay open late at least one night a week, often Thursday. Many museums, large and small, have weekly or monthly "free" days or hours.

Shops

Most stores in Los Angeles are open 10 to 6, although many stay open until 9 PM or later, particularly those in trendy areas such as Melrose Avenue and in Santa Monica. Tower Records on the Sunset Strip, for example, is open every day until midnight. Shops along Melrose, Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice, and in Los Feliz often don't get moving until 11 AM or noon. Most shops are open on Sunday at least in the afternoon.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 litre of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Bureau of Customs and Border Protection (for inquiries and equipment registration, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20229. PHONE: 202/354-1000, www.customs.gov, for complaints, Customer Satisfaction Unit, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.5D.).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Consulate General (2049 Century Park E, USA. PHONE: 310/229-4800).

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20036. PHONE: 202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Consulate General (550 S Hope, USA. PHONE: 213/346-2700).

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20001. PHONE: 202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC, 20008. PHONE: 202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Consulate General (11766 Wilshire Blvd., USA. PHONE: 310/481-0031).

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20008. PHONE: 202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

Ambulance (PHONE: 911).

Fire (PHONE: 911).

Police (PHONE: 911).

You can explore L.A. from many vantage points and even more topical angles. Not surprisingly, lots of guides include dollops of celebrity history and gossip. Most tours run year-round. Note that most tour companies require advance reservations.

Bicycle Tours

LA Bike Tours offers a handful of guided rides, including routes through Hollywood, Beverly Hills, and Venice, ranging from a slow-paced three-hour trip to a full-day "Grand Slam." Tours include water, lunch, bicycle, and helmet; rates start at $49.50.

Fees & Schedules

LA Bike Tours (6733 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, 90028. PHONE: 323/466-5890 or 888/775-2453, www.labiketours.com).

Bus and Van Tours

Casablanca Tours, established in 1980, gives sightseeing tours all around L.A., but its specialty is an insider's look at Hollywood and Beverly Hills; it's available in two- and four-hour versions ($29-$81). Most tours are in minibuses with a maximum of 14 people; others are in 25-seaters. L.A. Tours and Sightseeing has several tours ($29-$88), by van and bus, covering various parts of the city, including downtown, Hollywood, and Beverly Hills. The company also operates tours to Disneyland, Universal Studios, Six Flags Magic Mountain, beaches, and stars' homes. Starline Tours of Hollywood ($37-$87) picks up passengers from area hotels and from Grauman's Chinese Theater. Sights such as Universal Studios, Knott's Berry Farm, stars' homes, and Disneyland are on this popular tour company's agenda.

Fees & Schedules

Casablanca Tours (PHONE: 323/461-0156, www.casablancatours.com). L.A. Tours and Sightseeing (PHONE: 323/460-6490, www.latours.net). Starline Tours of Hollywood (PHONE: 323/463-3333 or 800/959-3131, www.starlinetours.com).

Helicopter Tours

If you want an aerial tour, lift off with Orbic Helicopters. It offers two 30-minute tours (a general L.A. tour and a scenic shoreline/Westside tour) and a 45-minute tour combining those itineraries. Orbic's been flying its two- or four-passenger helicopters for more than a dozen years, and the pilots each have 16 or more years of flying experience. Flights cost $130-$180 per person; reserve via credit card and cancel within 24 hours at no charge (no-shows pay full fares).

Fees & Schedules

Orbic Helicopters (16700 Roscoe Blvd., between Balboa and Havenhurst, Van Nuys, 91406. PHONE: 818/988-6532, www.orbichelicopters.com).

Private Guides

Elegant Tours for the Discriminating is a personalized sightseeing and shopping service for the Beverly Hills area. Joan Mansfield offers her extensive knowledge of Rodeo Drive to one, two, or three people at a time. Lunch is included and price varies with the itinerary. L.A. Nighthawks will arrange your nightlife for you. For a rather hefty price, you'll get a limousine, a guide (who ensures you're in a safe environment at all times), and immediate entry into L.A.'s hottest nightspots.

Fees & Schedules

Elegant Tours for the Discriminating (PHONE: 310/472-4090). L.A. Nighthawks. Mailing address: Box 7642, Santa Monica, 90406. PHONE: 310/392-1500.

Special-Interest Tours

With Architecture Tours L.A., you can zip all over the city in a 1960s Cadillac on a private tour with an architectural historian. Rates start at $60. Architours customizes walking and driving tours for architecture buffs; these can include interior visits with architects, artists, and designers. Rates begin at $25 per hour. The City of Beverly Hills operates two trolley tours, one focused on art and architecture, the other on local sights. From July through Labor Day and during the winter holidays the trolleys run Tuesday through Saturday; during the rest of the year they make the rounds on Saturday only. Tickets cost $5. Hollywood Fantasy Tours has daily van tours that take you through historic Hollywood, to the hollywood sign, and past stars' homes in Beverly Hills. The tours cost $16-$31, but there are combo packages and group discounts. LA Today Custom Tours has itineraries that tie in with cultural events, such as theater, museum exhibits, and the Rose Bowl. Prices are $12-$85. Soak up the shimmer and glow of classic neon signs from an open double-decker bus on a Neon Art Tour, given Saturday evenings from June through August, plus a couple of trips in September. Tickets cost at least $45. The Next Stage also has an innovative take on the city; it takes people by foot, buses, vans, trains, and helicopters on its tours. Favorites (mostly in the $30-$60 range) include the "Insomniac's Tour," the "Scentimental Journey," "L.A. Has Its Ups and Downs" (an escalator-elevator excursion), and a culinary tour. Take My Mother Please will arrange lively, thematic combination walking and driving tours; for instance, you could explore sights associated with the Raymond Chandler and Walter Mosley detective novels. Custom tours are also available. Rates start at $300 for a half-day.

Fees & Schedules

Architecture Tours L.A (PHONE: 323/464-7868, www.architecturetoursla.com).

Architours (PHONE: 323/294-5821, www.architours.com).

City of Beverly Hills Trolley Tours (PHONE: 310/285-2438, www.beverlyhills.org).

Hollywood Fantasy Tours (PHONE: 323/469-8184 or 800/782-7287, www.hollywoodfantasytours.com).

LA Today Custom Tours (PHONE: 310/454-5730).

Neon Art Tours (PHONE: 213/489-9918, www.neonmona.org).

The Next Stage (PHONE: 626/577-7880, www.nextstagetours.com).

Take My Mother Please (PHONE: 323/737-2200, www.takemymotherplease.com).

Walking Tours

The Los Angeles Conservancy offers walking tours (each about 2½ hours long), chiefly of the downtown area. The cost is $8 per person (except for the Angelino Heights tour, which is $10). Off 'N Running Tours gives individual and group (discounted) running and walking tours of L.A. Both customized and set routes (Beverly Hills, the beaches, etc.) are available. A very pleasant self-guided walking tour of the Santa Monica mountains is detailed in a brochure available at the park's visitors center.

Fees & Schedules

Los Angeles Conservancy (PHONE: 213/623-2489, www.laconservancy.org).

Off 'N Running Tours (PHONE: 310/246-1418 or 800/523-8687, www.offnrunningtours.com).

Santa Monica Visitors Center (www.santamonica.com).

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, pharmacys, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (one ounce or less) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

ATMs

ATMs are widely available, not just in banks but at many grocery stores, shopping centers, petrol stations, and amusement parks, as well. There may be an extra fee for their use at locations other than your own banking chain.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins and "golden" dollar coins (the latter introduced in 2000) are rarely seen in circulation. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

The sales tax rate in Los Angeles is 8.25%.

Tipping

The customary tip rate is 15%-20% for waiters and taxi drivers and 10%-15% for hairdressers and barbers. Bellhops and airport baggage handlers receive $1-$2 per bag; parking valets are usually tipped $1-$2. Bartenders are generally tipped $1 per drink. Hotel maids should generally receive $1-$3 per day of the stay. In upscale establishments, they should receive at least 4% of the room rate before taxes, unless the hotel charges a service fee that includes gratuity. In restaurants, a handy trick is doubling the 8.25% tax.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London, W1A 2JB.) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, BT1 6EQ, Northern Ireland. PHONE: 028/9032-8239, www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, NSW, 2000. PHONE: 02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line, www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington. PHONE: 04/462-6000, usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland. PHONE: 09/303-2724, usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410, www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service, travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

In L.A., as in any other major American city, street smarts and common sense are your best methods of staying safe. At night, avoid areas that are deserted or unlighted. When driving in unfamiliar areas, plan your route ahead of time rather than figuring it out on the way. Do not respond to people offering cab rides or help with your luggage.

Keep valuables out of sight on the street or, better yet, leave them at home. Men should carry wallets in front pants pockets rather than in back pockets. Do not hang purses or backpacks on the back of chairs or put them on empty neighboring seats. Keep your belongings close; for example, tuck your bag between your feet at a movie theater. Money belts and waist packs peg you as a tourist; if you carry a purse, consider one with a thick strap that can be worn across the body, bandolier-style. When leaving your car, put any valuables out of sight; put all the windows up and lock all doors and the trunk.

After years in decline, gang-related violent crime has recently been on the rise, prompting aggressive new anti-gang initiatives from Police Chief William Bratton. Gang-related street violence is concentrated in certain neighborhoods; South L.A., Compton, and Watts should be avoided, particularly at night.

Of the Metro lines, the Red and Green lines are safest and more heavily patrolled. The Blue Line has a poorer safety record and can be sketchy after dark. Avoid riding in empty cars, and move with the crowd when going from the station to the street.

Earthquake Safety

Very minor earthquakes occur frequently in Southern California; most of the time they're so slight that you won't notice them at all. If you do feel a stronger tremor, follow the basic safety precautions. If you're indoors, take cover in a doorway or under a table or desk -- whichever is closest to you. Protect your head with your arms. Stay clear of windows, mirrors, or anything that might fall from the walls. Do not use elevators. If you're in an open space, move away from buildings, trees, and power lines. If you're outdoors near buildings, duck into a doorway. If you're driving, slow down and pull over to the side of the road, avoiding overpasses, bridges, and power lines, and stay inside the car. Expect aftershocks; if you feel a smaller quake following a larger tremor, take cover again.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area codes for Los Angeles County and adjacent areas include 213 (downtown Los Angeles), 310 (Santa Monica and the west side), 323 (Hollywood and East Hollywood area), 562 (Long Beach), 626 (Pasadena and the San Gabriel Valley), 714 (Orange County), 818 (San Fernando Valley), and 949 (Orange County).

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (50¢ for local calls), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

L.A. Inc./The Convention and Visitors Bureau publishes an annually updated general information packet with suggestions for entertainment, lodging, dining, and a list of special events. There are two L.A. visitor information centers, on Figueroa downtown and on Hollywood Boulevard in Hollywood. The Santa Monica CVB runs two drop-in visitor information centers, one in the Santa Monica Place Shopping Center and another in Palisades Park; both are open daily 10-4.

Tourist Information

Beverly Hills Conference and Visitors Bureau (239 S. Beverly Dr., 90212, USA. PHONE: 310/248-1000 or 800/345-2210, www.beverlyhillsbehere.com).

Hollywood Chamber of Commerce Info Center (7018 Hollywood Blvd., 90028, USA. PHONE: 323/469-8311, www.hollywoodcoc.org).

L.A. Inc./The Convention and Visitors Bureau (333 S. Hope St., 18th floor, Los Angeles, 90071. PHONE: 213/624-7300 or 800/228-2452, www.lainc.us or www.lacvb.com).

Long Beach Area Convention and Visitors Bureau (1 World Trade Center, Suite 300, 90831-0300, USA. PHONE: 562/436-3645, www.visitlongbeach.com).

Los Angeles Visitors Information Center (685 S. Figueroa St., USA. PHONE: 213/689-8822).

Pasadena Convention & Visitors Bureau (171 S. Los Robles Ave., 91101, USA. PHONE: 626/795-9311, www.pasadenacal.com).

Santa Monica Convention & Visitors Bureau (520 Broadway, Suite 250, 90401-2428, USA. PHONE: 310/319-6263 or 800/544-5319, www.santamonica.com).

Santa Monica Visitors Centers (1400 Ocean Ave., 90401, USA. PHONE: 310/393-7593, 395 Santa Monica Pl., PHONE: 310/393-7593).

West Hollywood Convention and Visitors Bureau (8687 Melrose Ave., Suite M25, 90069, USA. PHONE: 310/289-2525 or 800/368-6020, www.visitwesthollywood.com).

State Tourist Office

California Office of Tourism (801 K St., Suite 1600, Sacramento, CA, 95814. PHONE: 916/322-2882 or 800/862-2543, gocalif.ca.gov).

In the U.K.

California Tourist Office. Mailing address: ABC California, Box 35, Abingdon, Oxfordshire, OX14 4TB. PHONE: 0891/200-278. Calls cost 50p per minute peak rate or 45p per minute cheap rate. Brochures can be obtained by sending to the above address a check for £3 made to ABC California.

Almost any time of the year is the right time to go to Los Angeles; the climate is mild and pleasant year-round. Contrary to popular belief, Los Angeles does have seasons, the most lovely being winter, a time of crisp, sunny, unusually smogless days from about November to May. While this takes in the rainy season, December to April, the storms are usually brief, and afterward the skies are brilliant. Of course, the mountains are glorious in winter, perfect for skiing. However, dining alfresco, bike riding, sailing, catching a concert under the stars-these are the domain of Los Angeles summers. Summers are virtually rainless, leading to the occasional days of air-quality alerts. Prices skyrocket and reservations are a must when tourism peaks from July through early October.

Southern California is a temperate area and the Pacific Ocean is the primary moderating influence. In addition, mountains along the north and east sides of the Los Angeles coastal basin act as buffers against the extreme summer heat and winter cold of the desert and plateau regions.

Mild sea breezes and winds from the interior can mix to produce a variety of weather conditions; an unusual aspect of the Los Angeles climate is the pronounced difference in temperature, humidity, cloudiness, fog, rain, and sunshine over short distances. Rule of thumb, particularly in the spring and summer, is that the San Fernando Valley (Burbank, North Hollywood, Sherman Oaks, Van Nuys, etc.) will be hotter than the Beverly Hills/Hollywood/Mid-Wilshire/downtown area, while the coastal areas (Malibu, Santa Monica, Venice, etc.) will be cooler.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Los Angeles:

January 44-64°F (7-18°C); February 46-64°F (8-18°C); March 48-66°F (9-19°C); April 51-66°F (11-19°C); May 53-69°F (12-21°C); June 57-71°F (14-22°C); July 60-75°F (16-24°C); August 62-75°F (17-24°C); September 60-75°F (16-24°C); October 55-73°F (13-23°C); November 48-71°F (9-22°C); December 46-66°F (8-19°C).

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).