In a city where informality reigns, this place offers a dressy -- but never stuffy -- dining experience. A crystal chandelier hangs in the main dining room; the garden room has a stone fountain and a retractable roof. Chef-owner Josiah Citrin enriches his modern French menu with seasonal California produce; choices include salsify soup with black truffle mousse, Maine lobster with a carrot emulsion, and duck with blood-orange glaze. There's also tableside cheese service. Although jackets aren't required, they are definitely preferred. Reservations essential.