Central London and its surrounding districts are divided into 32 boroughs -- 33, counting the City of London. More useful for finding your way around, however, are the subdivisions of London into postal districts. Throughout the guide we've given the full postal code for most listings. The first one or two letters give the location: N means north, NW means northwest, etc. Don't expect the numbering to be logical, however. You won't, for example, find W2 next to W3. The general rule is that the lower numbers, such as W1 or SW1, are closest to the city center.

By far the easiest and most practical way to get around is on the Underground or "Tube." This underground train system runs daily from early morning to night and provides a comprehensive service throughout the center with lines out to the suburbs. Tube fares can work out to be higher than bus fares, but if you are traveling a lot around town, then you should investigate buying a Travelcard pass, which gives you discounted flexible travel on the Tube, plus bus and some overground rail travel.

The overground rail system is a network that connects outlying districts and suburbs to the center. Prices are comparable to the Underground, and you can easily transfer between the Underground and other connecting rail lines at many Tube stations. Some passes are good for both the Underground and the rail system, so check at the point of purchase.

If you want to see the city, buses crisscross all over town. Their routes are more complicated than the Tube, but by reading the route posted on the main bus stop and watching the route on the front of the bus, you won't go far wrong. Bus travel prices are cheaper than the Tube the farther you travel, but be prepared to get stuck in traffic, even though designated lanes for buses and taxis should speed up the journey. Services are frequent, but if you become frustrated and flag down a taxi, the fare can clock up to three times the price of a similar bus fare for the same distance. If you're traveling with several people, however, riding in a taxi is relatively inexpensive and is more comfortable and convenient.

The red London Transport (LT) (PHONE: 020/7222-1234) buses, which travel all over town, have been joined by the bright colors of other private bus companies that cover the suburbs. Bus stops are clearly indicated; the main stops have a red LT symbol on a plain white background. When the word "Request" is written across the sign, you must flag the bus down. Each numbered route is listed on the main stop, and buses have a large number on the front with their end destination. Not all buses run the full route at all times; check with the driver or conductor. If you want to decipher the numbers, pick up a free bus guide at an LT Travel Information Centre (at Euston, Hammersmith, King's Cross, Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus, St. James's Park, Victoria Tube stations, and at Heathrow).

Buses are a good way of seeing the town, particularly if you plan to hop on and off to cover many sights, but don't take a bus if you are in a hurry. To get off, pull the cord running above the windows on old buses, or press the button by the exit. Expect to get a little squashed during rush hours, from 8 AM to 9:30 AM and 4:30 PM to 6:30 PM.

Night Buses, denoted by the prefix "N" to their route numbers, run from 11 PM to 5 AM on a more restricted route than day buses. Fares are slightly higher, and Travelcard passes are not accepted. Avoid sitting alone on the top deck of a Night Bus; it gives a mugger an ideal opportunity.

Fares & Schedules

All journeys within the central zone are £1, and all others outside are 70p. Travel from the outer to the central zone costs £1. If you plan to make a number of journeys in one day, consider buying a Travelcard good for both Tube and bus travel or a £2 One-Day bus pass, valid on all buses in zones 1-4. Traveling without a valid ticket makes you liable for a fine (£10). Buses are supposed to swing by every five or six minutes, but, in reality, you may wait longer.

Paying

Payment is made to the driver as you enter (exact change is best so as to avoid incurring the driver's wrath). On some of the old buses, a conductor issues you a ticket. For travel on "Bendy Buses," which have three doors, you must purchase tickets before you board. There are ticket machines at bus stops along these routes.

The best advice on driving in London is: don't. London's streets are a winding mass of chaos, aggravated by one-way streets. Parking is also restrictive and expensive, and traffic is tediously slow at most times of the day; during rush hours -- from 8 AM to 9:30 AM and 4:30 PM to 6:30 PM -- it often grinds to a standstill, particularly on Friday, when everyone wants to leave town. The center shopping areas are to be avoided, including the roads feeding Oxford Street, Kensington, and Knightsbridge. Other main roads into the city center are also busy, such as King's Cross and Euston in the north. Watch out also for cyclists and motorcycle couriers who weave between cars and pedestrians and seem to come out of nowhere.

Remember that Britain drives on the left, and the rest of Europe on the right. Therefore, you may want to leave your rented car in Britain and pick up a left-side drive if you cross the Channel.

A congestion charge designed to reduce traffic through central London was instituted in February 2003. Vehicles (with some exemptions) entering central London on weekdays from 7 AM to 6:30 PM (excluding public holidays) have to pay a £5 per day fee; it can be paid up to 90 days in advance, or on the day you need it. Day-, week-, month-, and year-long passes are available on the Web site, at petrol stations, car parks, by mail, by phone, by SMS text message, and at BT Internet kiosks. Traffic signs designate the entrance to congestion areas, and cameras read car license plates and send the information to a database. Drivers who don't pay the congestion charge by midnight after the day of driving are penalized £80, which is reduced to £40 if paid within 14 days.

Congestion Charge Customer Service. Mailing address: Box 2985, Coventry, CV7 8ZR. PHONE: 0845/900-9121, www.cclondon.com.

Car Rentals

Rental rates in London vary widely and are expensive, beginning at £50 a day and £200 a week for a small economy car (such as a sub-compact General Motors Vauxhall Corsa, or Renault Clio), usually with manual transmission. Air-conditioning and unlimited mileage generally come with the larger-size automatic cars.

In London

1car1 (140 Druid St., London, SE1 2HH. PHONE: 020/7394-8383, FAX: 020/7237-6459, www.1car1.com).

Dimple Car Hire (19 Varley Parade, London, NW9 6RR. PHONE: 020/8205-1200, FAX: 020/7243-4408, www.dimple-selfdrive.co.uk).

Easy Car (PHONE: 0906/333-3333; 60p per minute within the U.K., www.easycar.com).

Enterprise (466-480 Edgware Rd., London, W2 1EL. PHONE: 020/7723-4800).

Europcar (30 Woburn Pl., London, WC1H 0JR. PHONE: 020/7637-0514).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696, www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand, www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K., www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia, www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia, www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K., www.nationalcar.com).

Emergency Services

The general procedure for a breakdown is the following: position the red hazard triangle (which should be in the trunk of the car) a few paces away from the rear of the car. Leave the hazard warning lights on. If you are on a highway (motorway), emergency roadside telephone booths are positioned at intervals within walking distance. Contact the car rental company, or an auto club.

The main automobile help groups in the U.K. are:

Automobile Association (A.A.) (PHONE: 0870/550-0600; 0800/887766 for emergency roadside assistance).

Royal Automobile Club (R.A.C.) (PHONE: 0870/572-2722).

If you are a member of the American Automobile Association (A.A.A) (PHONE: 800/564-6222) check your membership details before you depart for Britain as, under a reciprocal agreement, roadside assistance in the U.K. should cost you nothing. You can join and receive roadside assistance from the A.A. on the spot, but the charge is higher -- around £75 -- than a simple membership fee.

Petrol

Petrol (petrol) is sold in litres and is increasingly expensive. Unleaded petrol is predominant, denoted by green pump lines. Premium and Super Premium are the two varieties, and most cars run on regular premium. Supermarket pumps usually offer the best value, although they are often on the edge of the central city. You won't find too many service stations in the center of town; these are generally on main, multi-carriageway trunk roads out of the center. Service is self-serve, except in small villages, and these petrol stations are likely to be closed on Sundays and late evening. Most accept major credit cards.

Parking

During the day -- and probably at all times -- it is safest to believe that you can park nowhere except at a meter, in a garage, or where you are sure there are no lines or signs; otherwise, you run the risk of a towing cost of about £100 or a wheel clamp, which costs about the same, since you pay to have the clamp removed plus the cost of the one or two tickets you'll have earned first. Restrictions are indicated by the "No Waiting" parking signpost on the sidewalk (these restrictions vary from street to street), and restricted areas include single yellow lines or double yellow lines. Parking at a bus stop or in a red-lined bus lane is also restricted. It is illegal to park on the sidewalk, across entrances, or on white zigzag lines approaching a pedestrian crossing.

Meters have an insatiable hunger in the inner city -- a 20p piece buys just six minutes -- and some will only permit a two-hour stay. Meters take 10p, 20p, 50p, and £1 coins. In the evening, after restrictions end, meter bays are free. Daytime, take advantage of the many N.C.P. parking lots in the center of town, which are often better value (about £2.50-£3 per hour, up to 8 hours). A London street map should have the parking lots marked. The London Parking Guide (£4.99, Two Heads Publishing) provides indispensable advice.

Requirements

In London your own driver's license is acceptable (as long as you are over 23 years old, with no endorsements or driving convictions). An International Driver's Permit is a good idea; it's available from the American or Canadian Automobile Association and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. International permits are universally recognized, and having one may save you a problem with the local authorities.

Rules of the Road

If you must risk life and limb and drive in London, note that the speed limit is 30 mph in the royal parks, as well as in all streets -- unless you see the large 40 mph signs (and small repeater signs attached to lampposts) found only in the suburbs. Other basic rules: pedestrians have right-of-way on "zebra" crossings (black and white stripes that stretch across the street between two Belisha beacons -- orange-flashing globe lights on posts) and it is illegal to pass another vehicle at a zebra crossing. At other crossings pedestrians must yield to traffic, but they do have right-of-way over traffic turning left at controlled crossings -- if they have the nerve.

Traffic lights sometimes have arrows directing left or right turns; try to catch a glimpse of the road markings in time, and don't get into the turn lane if you mean to go straight ahead. A right turn is not permitted on a red light. On designated bus lanes a sign at the beginning and end gives the time restrictions for use -- usually during peak hours -- if you are caught, you could be fined. The use of horns is prohibited between 11:30 PM and 7 AM. Seat belts are to be worn by law in the front and the back seats. Drunk-driving laws are strictly enforced and it is far safer to avoid alcohol altogether. The legal limit is 80 milligrams of alcohol, which roughly translated means two units of alcohol -- two glasses of wine, one pint of beer, or one glass of whiskey.

Those big black taxicabs are as much a part of the London streetscape as the red double-decker buses, yet many have been replaced by the new boxy, sharp-edged model, and the beauty of others is marred by the advertising they carry on their sides. Hotels and main tourist areas have cab stands (just take the first in line), but you can also flag one down from the roadside. If the yellow "For Hire" sign on the top is lit, the taxi is available. Cab drivers often cruise at night with their signs unlit so that they can choose their passengers and avoid those they think might cause trouble. If you see an unlit, passengerless cab, hail it: you might be lucky.

Fares start at £1.40 and increase by £1.80 for every mile or £.30 per minute. Surcharges are a tricky extra, ranging from 40p for additional passengers or bulky luggage to 60p for evenings 8 PM-midnight, and until 6 AM on weekends and public holidays -- at Christmas it zooms to £2 and there's 40p extra for each additional passenger. Fares are occasionally raised from year to year. Tip taxi drivers 10%-15% of the tab.

London's extensive Underground train (Tube) system has color-coded routes, clear signage, and extensive connections. Trains run out into the suburbs, and all stations are marked with the London Underground circular symbol. (In Britain, the word "subway" means "pedestrian underpass.") Trains are all one class; smoking is not allowed on board or in the stations.

Some lines have branches (Central, District, Northern, Metropolitan, and Piccadilly), so be sure to note which branch is needed for your particular destination. Electronic platform signs tell you the final stop and route of the next train and how many minutes you'll have to wait for the train to arrive. The zippy Docklands Light Railway runs through the modern Docklands with an extension to the Cutty Sark and maritime Greenwich.

Fares & Schedules

London is divided into six concentric zones (ask at Underground ticket booths for a map and booklet, which give details of the ticket options), so make sure to buy a ticket for the correct zone or you may be liable for an on-the-spot fine (£10).

You can buy a single or return ticket, the equivalent of a one-way and a round-trip, for travel anytime on the day of issue. Singles vary in price from £1.40 to £3.40. If you are planning several trips in one day then consider a Travelcard, which is good for unrestricted travel on both Tube and bus and some overground railways; these are valid weekdays after 9:30 AM, weekends, and on all public holidays, but cannot be used on airbuses, Night Buses, or for certain special services. Other options are: One Day Travelcard (£4.10-£5); Weekend Travelcards, for the two days of the weekend and on any two consecutive days during public holidays (£6.10-£7.50); Family Travelcards, which are one-day tickets for one or two adults with one to four children (£3-£3.60 with one child, additional children cost 80p each); or the Carnet, a book of 10 single tickets valid for central Zone 1 (£11.50) to use anytime over a year.

The Visitor's Travelcard may be bought in the United States and Canada. Three ticket types for periods of two to seven days exist for zones 1-6, zones 1 and 2 or a round-trip Heathrow Express ticket. Prices start at about $20 for a zones 1 and 2 ticket valid for 3 days and go up to about $60 for a zones 1-6 ticket valid for one week. Apply to travel agents or, in the United States, to BritRail Travel International (1500 Broadway, New York, NY, 10036, USA. PHONE: 212/382-3737).

Trains begin running just after 5 AM Monday-Saturday; the last services leave central London between midnight and 12:30 AM. On Sunday, trains start two hours later and finish about an hour earlier. Frequency of trains depends on the route and the time of day, but normally you should not have to wait more than 10 minutes in central areas.

There are London Transport (PHONE: 020/7222-1234, www.londontransport.co.uk) Travel Information Centres at the following Tube stations: Euston, Hammersmith, King's Cross, Liverpool Street, Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus, St. James's Park, and Victoria, open 7:15 AM-10 PM; and at Heathrow (in Terminals 1, 2 and 4), open 6 AM-3 PM.

For travelers with disabilities, get the free leaflet, "Access to the Underground" (PHONE: 020/7941-4600).

Generally, businesses are closed on Sundays and national (bank) holidays. New Year's Day is a national holiday, but many major stores are open for the annual sales reductions. Many restaurants are closed over the Christmas period.

Banks & Offices

Banks are open weekdays 9:30-4:30; offices, 9:30-5:30.

Gas Stations

Most petrol stations in central London are open seven days, 24 hours. As you get farther out of town, and off trunk/major roads, hours vary considerably depending on the gas company, but are usually 8 AM-8 PM.

Museums & Sights

The major national museums and galleries are open daily, with shorter hours on weekends than weekdays. But there is a trend towards longer hours, such as one late-night opening a week.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are called chemists and are open, for the most part, Monday-Saturday 9:30 AM-5:30 PM. The leading chain pharmacy, Boots, is open until 6 PM (the Oxford Street and Piccadilly Circus branches are also open Sunday and until 8 PM Thursday). Bliss Chemist at 5 Marble Arch has the longest opening hours, from 9 AM-midnight.

Shops

Shops and offices in central London tend to keep longer hours than those in the surrounding districts. Usual business hours are Monday-Saturday 9 AM-5:30 PM. In the main shopping streets of Oxford Street, Kensington High Street, and Knightsbridge, hours are 9:30 AM-6 PM, with late-night opening hours in Oxford Street on Thursday until 7:30-8 PM, and in the latter areas, on Wednesday. Many small general stores and newsagents stay open on Sunday; some chain and fashion stores in the tourist areas of Oxford Street and Piccadilly (and out-of-town shopping malls) also remain open.

Arriving in the United Kingdom

There are two levels of duty-free allowance for entering Britain: one for goods bought outside the European Union (E.U.) and the other for goods bought within the E.U. (Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, the Irish Republic, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, and Sweden).

Of goods bought outside the E.U. you may import duty-free: 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; 2 litres of table wine and, in addition, (a) 1 litre of alcohol over 22% by volume (most spirits), (b) 2 litres of alcohol under 22% by volume (fortified or sparkling wine or liqueurs), or (c) 2 more litres of table wine; 60 millilitres of perfume; ¼ litre (250 ml) of toilet water; and other goods up to a value of £145, but not more than 50 litres of beer or 25 cigarette lighters.

Of goods bought within the E.U., you should not exceed (unless you can prove they are for personal use): 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars, and 1 kilogram of tobacco, plus 10 litres of spirits, 20 litres of fortified wine, 90 litres of wine, and 110 litres of beer.

No animals or pets of any kind can be brought in without a lengthy quarantine. The penalties are severe and are strictly enforced. Similarly, fresh meats, plants and vegetables, controlled drugs, and firearms and ammunition may not be brought into the U.K.

For more information, contact HM Customs and Excise (PHONE: 0345/442236 Customer Helpline).

The electrical current in London is 220/240 volts (coming into line with the rest of Europe at 230 volts), 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take three-pin plugs, and shaver sockets take two round, oversize prongs.

For converters, adapters, and advice, contact the British Airways Travel Shop (156 Regent St., London, W1, England. PHONE: 020/7434-4725).

Australia

Australia House (Strand, London, WC2, England. PHONE: 020/7379-4334).

Canada

MacDonald House (1 Grosvenor Sq., London, W1, England. PHONE: 020/7258-6600, www.canada.org.uk).

New Zealand

New Zealand House (80 Haymarket, London, SW1, England. PHONE: 020/7930-8422).

United States

U.S. Embassy (24 Grosvenor Sq., London, W1, England. PHONE: 020/7499-9000); for passports, go to the U.S. Passport Unit (55 Upper Brook St., London, W1, England. PHONE: 020/7499-9000, www.usembassy.org.uk).

If you need to report a theft or an attack (London is a relatively safe city) go to the nearest police station (listed in the Yellow Pages or the local directory). For severe emergencies, dial 999 for police, fire, or ambulance (be prepared to give the telephone number you're calling from). National Health Service hospitals give free, 24-hour treatment in Accident and Emergency sections, where delays can be an hour or more. Prescriptions are valid only if made out by doctors registered in the U.K.

Doctors & Dentists

Dental Emergency Care Service (PHONE: 020/7955-2186).

Doctor's Call (PHONE: 020/8900-1000).

Eastman Dental Hospital (256 Gray's Inn Rd., London, WC1, England. PHONE: 020/7915-1000).

Medical Express (117A Harley St., London, W1, England. PHONE: 020/7499-1991).

Hospitals

Charing Cross Hospital (Fulham Palace Rd., London, W6, England. PHONE: 020/8846-1234).

Royal Free Hospital (Pond St., Hampstead, NW3. PHONE: 020/7794-0500).

St. Thomas' Hospital (Lambeth Palace Rd., London, SE1, England. PHONE: 020/7928-9292).

University College Hospital (Grafton Way, London, WC1, England. PHONE: 020/7387-9300).

Hot Lines

Samaritans (PHONE: 020/7734-2800).

Victim Support (PHONE: 020/7735-9166; 020/7582-5712 after office hours).

Late-Night Pharmacies

Bliss the Chemist (5 Marble Arch, London, W1, England. PHONE: 020/7723-6116).

The British stiff upper lip is more relaxed, but on social occasions the rule is to observe and then go with the flow. If you're visiting a family home, a gift of flowers is welcome. If it's for a meal, then take a bottle of wine perhaps, and maybe some candy for the children -- but not necessarily all three. Kissing on greeting is still too forward and Continental for most Brits. A warm handshake is just fine. For goodbyes, if the atmosphere warrants, a quick one-cheek kiss is appropriate. The British can never say please, thank you, or sorry too often; to thank your host, a phone call or thank-you card does nicely.

Business Etiquette

In business, punctuality is of prime importance, so if you anticipate a late arrival, call ahead. On dinners: it is not assumed that spouses will attend unless pre-arranged, and if you proffered the invitation it is usually assumed that you will pick up the tab. If you are the visitor, however, it's good form for the host to do the taking. Alternatively, play it safe and offer to split the check.

Bus Tours

Guided sightseeing tours from the top of a double-decker bus, which are open-topped in summer, are a good introduction to the city, as they cover all the main central sights. There is a choice of companies, each providing daily tours departing (between 8:30 and 9 AM) from central points. You may board or alight at any of the numerous stops to view the sights, and re-board on the next bus. Tickets are bought from the driver and are good all day. Prices vary according to the type of tour, although £12 is the benchmark.

Tour Operators

Big Bus Company (PHONE: 020/7233-9533).

Black Taxi Tour of London (PHONE: 020/7289-4371).

Evan Evans (PHONE: 020/7950-1777).

Frames Rickards (PHONE: 020/77 233-7030).

London Bicycle Tour (PHONE: 020/7928-6838).

London Pride (PHONE: 020/7520-2050).

Original London Sightseeing Tour (PHONE: 020/8877-1722).

By Canal

The tranquil side of London is to be found on narrow boats that cruise London's two canals, the Grand Union and Regent's Canal; most vessels operate on the latter, which runs between Little Venice in the west (nearest Tube: Warwick Avenue on the Bakerloo Line) and Camden Lock (about 200 yards north of Camden Town Tube station). Fares are about £5 for 1½-hour cruises.

Cruise Operators

Canal Cruises (PHONE: 020/8440-8962).

Jason's Trip (PHONE: 020/7286-3428).

London Waterbus Company (PHONE: 020/7482-2660).

On Foot

One of the best ways to get to know London is on foot, and there are many guided and themed walking tours from which to choose. If you wish to tailor your own tour, you might consider hiring a Blue Badge accredited guide or using Great London Treasure Hunt self-guided tours.

Tour Operators

Blue Badge (PHONE: 020/7495-5504).

Citisights (PHONE: 020/8806-4325).

Great London Treasure Hunt (PHONE: 020/7928-2627).

Historical Walks (PHONE: 020/8668-4019).

Jack the Ripper Mystery Walks (PHONE: 020/8558-9446).

Original London Walks (PHONE: 020/7624-3978).

By River

All year round, but more frequently from April to October, boats cruise the Thames, offering a different view of the London skyline. Most leave from Westminster Pier, Charing Cross Pier, and Tower Pier. Downstream routes go to the Tower of London, Greenwich, and the Thames Barrier via Canary Wharf. Upstream destinations include Kew, Richmond, and Hampton Court (mainly in summer). Most of the launches seat between 100 and 250 passengers, have a public-address system, and provide a running commentary on passing points of interest. Depending upon the destination, river trips may last from one to four hours. Capital Frog Tours uses amphibious vehicles to tour around and in the Thames.

A Sail and Rail (PHONE: 020/7363-9700) ticket combines the modern wonders of Canary Wharf by Docklands Light Railway with a trip on the river. Tickets are available year-round from Westminster Pier or DLR stations; ticket holders also get discounted tickets to the London Aquarium in Westminster and the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich.

Details on all river cruise operators are available from London River Services (PHONE: 020/7941-2400).

River Cruise Operators

Capital Frog Tours (PHONE: 020/7928-3132).

Catamaran Cruisers (PHONE: 020/7987-1185).

Thames Cruises (PHONE: 020/7930-4097).

Westminster Passenger Boat Services (PHONE: 020/7930-4097).

Excursions

London Regional Transport, Green Line, Evan Evans, National Express, and Frames Rickards all offer day excursions by bus to places within easy reach of London, such as Hampton Court, Oxford, Stratford, and Bath.

Evan Evans (PHONE: 020/7950-1777).

Frames Rickards (PHONE: 020/77 233-7030).

Green Line (PHONE: 0870/608-7261).

London Transport (LT) (PHONE: 020/7222-1234, www.londontransport.co.uk).

National Express (PHONE: 0870/580-8080, www.gobycoach.com).

Great Britain has been plagued in recent years by concern about Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE), commonly known as "mad cow" disease. Although the chance of catching the disease is extremely small, you may wish to avoid eating beef or choose beef or beef products, such as solid pieces of muscle meat (as opposed to burgers or sausages), that might have a reduced opportunity for contamination with tissues that could harbor the BSE agent.

Foot-and-mouth disease, which affects animals, spread in parts of the British countryside in 2001, but is now under control. The disease is very rare in humans and is harmless to them.

For the latest information, contact the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (PHONE: 877/394-8747, www.cdc.gov).

Stamps may be bought from post offices (open weekdays 9-5:30, Saturday 9-noon), from stamp machines outside post offices, and from newsagents' stores and newsstands. Mailboxes are known as post or letter boxes and are painted bright red; large tubular ones are set on the edge of sidewalks, while smaller boxes are set into post-office walls. Allow seven days for a letter to reach the United States. Check the Yellow Pages for a complete list of branches.

Post Offices (17 Euston Rd., London, NW1, England.)

Overnight Services

Major Services

DHL (PHONE: 0845/710-0300).

Federal Express (PHONE: 0800/123800).

Parcelforce (PHONE: 0800/224466).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters up to 10 grams (0.35 oz) to North America, Australia, and New Zealand cost 45p; postcards, 40p. Letters within Britain are 27p for first-class, 19p for second-class (these rates are subject to change).

Receiving Mail

If you're uncertain where you'll be staying, you can have mail sent to you at the London Main Post Office (24-28 William IV St., London, WC2N 4DL, England.), c/o Poste Restante. The post office will hold international mail for one month.

You can also collect letters at American Express (6 Haymarket, London, SW1Y 4BS, England. PHONE: 020/7930-4411).

Shipping Parcels

Most department stores and retail outlets can ship your goods home. You should check your insurance for coverage of possible damage.

A movie in the West End costs £6-£9.50 (at some cinemas less on Monday and at matinees); a theater seat, from £8.50 to about £35, more for hit shows; admission to a museum or gallery, around £5 (though some are free and others request a "voluntary contribution"); coffee, £1-£2; a pint of light (lager) beer in a pub, £2 and more; whiskey, gin, vodka, and so forth, by the glass in a pub, £2.50 and up (the measure is smaller than in the United States); house wine by the glass in a pub or wine bar, around £2, in a restaurant £3.50 or more; a Coke, around £1; a ham sandwich from a sandwich bar in the West End, £2; a 1-mi taxi ride, £4; an average Underground ride, £1.60, a longer one £2.50. For standby theater tickets, many at half-price, go to the SOLT (Society of London Theaters) booth in Leicester Square for that day's shows; it is open Monday-Saturday, 2:30-6:30, from noon on matinee days. There is a service charge of £2 or £1.25 on tickets under £12.50.

ATMs

Credit cards or debit cards (also known as check cards) will get you cash advances at ATMs worldwide, but to make sure that your Cirrus or Plus card (to cite just two of the leading names) works in European ATMs, have your bank reset it to use a four-digit PIN number before your departure.

Currency

The units of currency in Great Britain are the pound sterling (£) and pence (p): £50, £20, £10, and £5 bills (called notes); £2, £1 (100p), 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p coins.

Exchanging Money

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, ATM rates are excellent because they're based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

Taxes

An airport departure tax of £20 (£10 for within U.K. and other EU countries) per person is payable and may be subject to more government tax increases, although it is included in the price of your ticket.

The British sales tax (VAT, Value Added Tax) is 17½%. The tax is almost always included in quoted prices in shops, hotels, and restaurants.

Most travelers can get a VAT refund by either the Retail Export or the more cumbersome Direct Export method. Many large stores provide these services, but only if you request them; they will handle the paperwork. For the Retail Export method, you must ask the store for Form VAT 407 (you must have identification -- passports are best), to be given to customs at your last port of departure. (Lines at major airports can be long, so allow plenty of time.) The refund will be forwarded to you in about eight weeks, minus a small service charge, either in the form of a credit to your charge card or as a British check, which American banks usually charge you to convert. With the Direct Export method, the goods go directly to your home; you must have a Form VAT 407 certified by customs, police, or a notary public when you get home and then sent back to the store, which will refund your money. For inquiries, call the local Customs & Excise office listed in the London telephone directory.

A refund service can save you some hassle, for a fee. Global Refund is a Europe-wide service with 190,000 affiliated stores and more than 700 refund counters -- located at every major airport and border crossing. Its refund form is called a Tax Free Check. The service issues refunds in the form of cash, check, or credit-card adjustment, minus a processing fee. If you don't have time to wait at the refund counter, you can mail in the form instead.

V.A.T. Refunds

Global Refund (99 Main St., Suite 307, Nyack, NY, 10960, USA. PHONE: 800/566-9828, FAX: 845/348-1549, www.globalrefund.com).

Tipping

Many restaurants and large hotels (particularly those belonging to chains) will automatically add a 10%-15% service charge to your bill, so always check if tipping is necessary before you hand out any extra money.

Do not tip movie or theater ushers, elevator operators, or bar staff in pubs -- although you can always offer to buy them a drink. Washroom attendants may display a saucer, in which it's reasonable to leave 20p or so.

Here's a guide for other tipping situations. Restaurants: 10%-20% of the check for full meals if service is not already included (if paying by credit card, check that tip has not already been included before you fill in the total on your credit slip), a small token if you're just having coffee or tea. Taxis: 10%-15%, or perhaps a little more for a short ride. Porters: 50p-£1 per bag. Doormen: £1 for hailing taxis or for carrying bags to check-in desk. Bellhops: £1 for carrying bags, £1 for room service. Hairdressers: 10%-15% of the bill, plus £1-£2 for the hair-washer.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Great Britain

U.S. and Canadian citizens need only a valid passport to enter Great Britain for stays of up to 90 days.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3. PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410, www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service, travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

The country code for Great Britain is 44. The code for London is 020, followed by a 7 for numbers in central London, or an 8 for numbers in the Greater London area. The whole number is composed of 8 digits. For example, a number in central London might be 020/7222-3333, and in Greater London it would be 020/8222-3333. Freephone (toll-free) numbers start with 0800; national information numbers start with 0845.

You don't have to dial London's central area code (020) if you are calling inside London itself -- just the eight-digit telephone number.

Directory & Operator Information

For information anywhere in Britain, dial 192. For the operator, dial 100. For assistance with international calls, dial 155.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

When calling from overseas to access a London telephone number, drop the 0 from the prefix and dial only 20 (or any other British area code) and then the eight-digit phone number. To give one example: Let's say you're calling Buckingham Palace -- 020/7839-1377 from the U.S. to inquire about tours and hours. First, dial 011 (the international access code), then 44 (Great Britain's country code), then 20 (London's city center code), then the remainder of the telephone number, 7839-1377.

Long-Distance Calls

For long-distance calls within Britain, dial the area code (which begins with 01), followed by the number. The area-code prefix is only used when you are dialing from outside the city. In provincial areas, the dialing codes for nearby towns are often posted in the booth.

Phone Cards

Public card phones operate with special cards that you can buy from post offices or newsstands. They are ideal for longer calls; are composed of units of 10p; and come in values of £3, £5, £10, and more. To use a card phone, lift the receiver, insert your card, and dial the number. An indicator panel shows the number of units used. At the end of your call, the card will be returned. Where credit cards are taken, slide the card through, as indicated.

Public Phones

There are three types of phones: those that accept (a) only coins, (b) only British Telecom (BT) phone cards, or (c) BT phone cards and credit cards.

The coin-operated phones are of the push-button variety; the workings of coin-operated telephones vary, but there are usually instructions on each unit. Most take 10p, 20p, 50p, and £1 coins. Insert the coins before dialing (minimum charge is 10p). If you hear a repeated single tone after dialing, the line is busy; a continual tone means the number is unobtainable (or that you have dialed the wrong -- or no -- prefix). The indicator panel shows you how much money is left; add more whenever you like. If there is no answer, replace the receiver and your money will be returned.

All calls are charged according to the time of day. Standard rate is weekdays 8 AM-6 PM; cheap rate is weekdays 6 PM-8 AM and all day on weekends, when it's even cheaper. A local call before 6 PM costs 15p for three minutes; this doubles to 30p for the same from a pay phone. A daytime call to the United States will cost 24p a minute on a regular phone (weekends are cheaper), 80p on a pay phone.

Tourist Offices

In London

When you arrive in London, you can go in person to the London Tourist Information Centre at Victoria Station Forecourt for general information (Easter-Oct., daily 8-7; Nov.-Easter, Mon.-Sat. 8-6, Sun. 8:30-4).

The Britain Visitor Centre (1 Regent St., Piccadilly Circus, London, SW1Y 4NX, England.) provides travel, hotel, and entertainment information (July-Sept., weekdays 9-6:30, weekends 10-4; May-June, Mon.-Sat. 9-5).

The London Tourist Board's Visitorcall phone guide to London, or Londonline (PHONE: 09068/663344), gives information about events, theater, museums, transport, shopping, and restaurants. There is a separate phone number for regular updates on what's happening this week. There is also a faxback service, enabling you to have the major events calendar faxed to you. Just dial the number and press start/receive after the tone; after a short pause the pages will process through. Visitorcall charges start at 60p per minute at all times, plus any hotel/pay-phone surcharge. Note that this service is accessible only in the U.K.

VisitBritain (Thames Tower, Black's Rd., London, W6 9EL. PHONE: 020/8846-9000, www. visitbritain.com).

In the U.S.

VisitBritain (BTA, 551 5th Ave., 7th floor, New York, NY, 10176, USA. PHONE: 212/986-2200 or 800/462-2748, www.usagateway.visitbritain.com, 625 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1510, Chicago, IL, 60611, PHONE: 800/462-2748 for personal callers only).

In Canada

VisitBritain (5915 Airport Rd., Suite 120, Mississauga, Ontario, L4V 1T1. PHONE: 905/405-1840 or 800/847-4885).

The heaviest tourist season in Britain runs mid-April-mid-October, with another peak around Christmas -- though the tide never really ebbs. Spring is the time to see the countryside and the royal London parks and gardens at their freshest; early summer to catch the roses and full garden splendor; fall to enjoy near-ideal exploring conditions. The British take their vacations mainly in July and August, and the resorts are crowded. London in summer, however, though full of visitors, is also full of interesting things to see and do. But be warned: air-conditioning is rarely found in places other than department stores, modern restaurants, hotels, and cinemas in London, and in a hot summer you'll swelter. Winter can be rather dismal and is frequently wet and usually cold, but all the theaters, concerts, and exhibitions go full speed.

London's weather has always been contrary, and in recent years it has proved red-hot and cool by turns. It is virtually impossible to forecast what the pattern might be, but you can be fairly certain that it will not be what you expect. The main feature of the British weather is that it is generally mild -- with some savage exceptions, especially in summer. It is also fairly damp -- though even that has been changing in recent years, with the odd bout of drought. The following are the average daily maximum and minimum temperatures for London.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for London:

January 36-43°F (2-6°C); February 36-44°F (2-7°C); March 38-50°F (3-10°C); April 42-56°F (6-13°C); May 47-62°F (8-17°C); June 53-69°F (12-20°C); July 56-71°F (14-22°C); August 56-71°F (13-21°C); September 52-65°F (11-19°C); October 46-58°F (8-14°C); November 42-50°F (5-10°C); December 38-45°F (4-7°C).

Holidays

Standard holidays include: New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Monday, May Day (first Monday in May), spring and summer bank holidays (last Monday in May and August, respectively), Christmas, and Boxing Day (day after Christmas). On Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve some shops, restaurants, and businesses close early. Some museums and tourist attractions are also closed then. If you want to book a hotel room during this period, make sure you do it well in advance, and check to see whether the hotel restaurant will be open.