For an escape from the ordered prettiness of Hampstead, head to the heath -- a wild park, where wolves once roamed and washerwomen laundered clothes for aristocrats -- which spreads for miles to the north. From its top, at Spaniards Road, there are stunning views for miles to the city. There are signposted paths, but these can be confusing. Maps are available from Hampstead newsagents and bookshops, or the information center at the Gospel Oak entrance, Gordon House Road, where you can also get details about the history of the Heath, and the flora and fauna growing there. Close by here, walking east along the same road, a historic pub stands at the northwest edge, at the tollhouse between Spaniards Road and Hampstead Lane. The Spaniards Inn (PHONE: 020/8731-6571) is little changed since the early 18th century, when (they say) the notorious highwayman Dick Turpin hung out here. Keats also drank here, as did Shelley and Byron. Tube: Gospel Oak or Hampstead Heath Silverlink line from Highbury & Islington underground for south of the Heath; Hampstead underground, then walk through Flask Walk, Well Walk for east of the Heath; Golders Green underground, then bus 210, 268 to Whitestone Pond for north and west of the Heath.