The gallery, which first opened in 1897, funded by the sugar magnate Sir Henry Tate, is the older sister of Tate Modern, on the south bank of the Thames. As the name proclaims, great British artists from the 16th century to the present day are the focus. The Linbury Galleries on the lower floors stage temporary exhibitions. Galleries on the upper floors are reached by a wide, sweeping staircase, and house the Tate's permanent collection, much of which was brought out of storage after the opening of Tate Modern. The different rooms cover a massive range, some 500 years of art from the Tudor age to the up-to-the-minute Turner prize offerings. Each room has a theme and includes key works by major British artists: Van Dyck, Hogarth, and Reynolds rub shoulders with Rossetti, Sickert, Hockney, and Bacon, for example. Not to be missed is the generous selection of Constable landscapes.

The Turner Bequest consists of J. M. W. Turner's personal collection; he left it to the nation on condition that the works be displayed together. The James Stirling-designed Clore Gallery (to the right of the main gallery) opened in 1987 to fulfill his wish, and it should not be missed. The annual Turner Prize gets artists and nonartists into a frenzy about what art has come to -- or where it's going.

You can rent a "Tateinform," a handheld audio guide, with commentaries by curators, experts, and some of the artists themselves. About a 20-minute walk south of the Houses of Parliament, the Tate is also accessible if you tube it to the Pimlico stop, then take a five-minute, signposted walk. A shuttle bus and boat service link Tate Britain with Tate Modern at Bankside across the river.

Rather than walk back to Pimlico or Victoria, there are two eateries to tempt you right here. The Café Espresso Bar has hot and cold drinks, sandwiches, and cakes; the Tate Restaurant is almost a destination in itself, with its celebrated Rex Whistler murals, and a daily fixed-price three-course lunch menu (around £15) and à la carte choices. Ingredients celebrate British produce, such as Cornish crab, Welsh lamb, organic smoked salmon, Stilton cheese, and seasonal vegetables. Vegetarian meals and children's-size portions are available. It's open Monday through Saturday noon to 3 and Sunday noon to 4. COST: Free, exhibitions £3-£10. Tube: Pimlico.