One of Greenwich's star attractions has been completely updated to appeal to all. The Queen reopened the museum in 1999 after a major face-lift in preparation for the millennium tourist onslaught at Greenwich. The beautifully grand stone building is all glass, light, and modern within, dominated by huge revolving propeller from a powerful frigate on show in a glass-covered courtyard. Sea power is one of the areas covered in the museum, which has been segregated into themes. Besides containing everything to do with the sea, from seascape paintings to scientific instruments, there are the compelling stories of heroes. There's a whole gallery, for instance, devoted to Nelson (including his uniform, complete with bloodstain, worn at his death at the Battle of Trafalgar). Explorers such as Captain Cook, and Scott of the Antarctic, are celebrated, as is the valuable research they gleaned from their grueling voyages. Environmental issues are not forgotten, either, and the importance of the water cycle is illustrated with audio-visual lighting effects. Opportunities to grapple hands-on with ropes, weights, rowing, and steering are throughout the museum, but energetically so at the All Hands gallery. You'd be well advised to allow at least two hours in this absorbing, adventurous place and if you're in need of refreshment there's a good café with views over Greenwich Park. COST: Free. Tube: DLR: Greenwich.