Supreme among the symbols of London, indeed of Britain generally and of the Royal Family, Buckingham Palace tops many must-see lists. Its great gray bulk sums up the imperious splendor of so much of the city: stately, magnificent, and ponderous. When Victoria moved in, the place was a mess. George IV, on his accession in 1820, had fancied the idea of moving to Buckingham House, his parents' former home, and had employed John Nash, as usual, to remodel it.

The palace contains 19 state rooms, 52 royal and guest bedrooms, 188 staff bedrooms, 92 offices, and 78 bathrooms -- a prerequisite for the 450 people who work there, and the mere 50,000 who are entertained during the year. The royal apartments are in the north wing; when the queen is in residence, the royal standard is raised. The state rooms are on show from August to early October, a period when the Royal Family is away. A visit to the palace's west wing is a fascinating glimpse into another world: the fabulously gilt interiors are not merely museum pieces but pomp and pageantry at work.

A tour starts from the Ambassadors' Court entrance, through to the Entrée, where portraits of past kings look down. The classical tone is set with Ionic columns in honeyed Bath stone, marble pillars in cool Carrara white, fine French and English furniture, and Chinese vases. Once through the Grand Hall, the Grand Staircase, and Guard Room (too small for the royal bodyguards -- Yeoman of the Guard and Gentlemen-at-Arms in their traditional red-and-gold uniforms), the superlatives for the richness and elegance before your eyes could begin to wane.

Prepare to be completely and utterly gilded out as Nash's ornate designs unfold through the numerous drawing rooms -- each more jaw-dropping and neck-craning than the last -- decorated with elaborate ceilings and chandeliers, and magnificent objects brought from the Prince Regent's original palatial home, Carlton House. (Some of the most precious Sèvres porcelain in the world found its way here after the French Revolution.) The Throne Room, in opulent baroque style, has the original 1953 coronation throne chairs.

By now, when eyes are becoming glazed, the Picture Gallery is a restful feast of renowned art. The collection was begun by Charles I, and the works are periodically rearranged. Highlights among the many masterpieces are works by Rubens, Vermeer, Van Dyck, Cuyp, and Canaletto. The palace tour continues through more galleries and drawing rooms filled with exquisite paintings and tapestries, culminating with the State Dining Room and its overly elaborate Blore ceiling.

From the State Dining Room there are views across the sweeping gardens, and unless you have an invitation to one of the queen's summer garden parties, the most you'll see of the magnificent 45-acre grounds is a walk along the south side of the palace garden. This addition to the tour gives views of the Garden (west) front of the palace and the 19th-century lake. The walled oasis has plenty of wildlife -- it contains more than 350 types of wildflowers. Behind the front palace gates, the Changing of the Guard, with all the ceremony monarchists and children adore, remains one of London's best free shows and culminates in front of the palace. Marching to live music, the guards proceed up the Mall from St. James's Palace to Buckingham Palace. Shortly afterward, the replacement guard approaches from Wellington Barracks via Birdcage Walk. Then within the forecourt, the old guard symbolically hands over the keys to the palace to the replacement guard. The ceremony usually takes place on schedule, but the guards sometimes cancel because of bad weather; check the signs in the forecourt or phone. Get there by 10:30 AM to grab a spot in the best viewing section at the gate facing the palace, since most of the hoopla takes place behind the railings in the forecourt. Be sure to prebook tour reservations of the palace with a credit card by phone. COST: £12.95, prices change annually. Early Aug.-early Oct., daily 9:30-4:15; confirm dates, which are subject to queen's mandate. Changing of the Guard Apr.-July, daily 11:30 AM; Aug.-Mar., alternating days only 11:30 AM. Tube: Victoria or St. James's Park.