It's a relief from the frenzy of Oxford Street and its chain and department stores. The hub of the market is in Berwick Street, but there's an overspill through backstreet Soho, past Raymond's Revue Bar, and onto Rupert Street. Behind the bustling stalls there are pleasures galore: cafés, from greasy spoon to chic bar; fresh meat and game; Camembert on the edge of over-ripeness; giant slabs of chocolate; fresh fruits and vegetables; natty custom tailors; Borovik's fabrics; classy, risqué underwear to be found at Agent Provocateur (from Vivienne Westwood's son) -- they all provide a cosmopolitan, lively, delightfully brassy backdrop. Tube: Oxford Circus or Piccadilly Circus.