Only a family-run business could provide so quirky a visit until just recently, but after more than a hundred years in the business, there's a new look to this labyrinthine store. The Foyle brothers began a successful enterprise selling their own secondhand textbooks from the kitchen table, followed that up with a small shop, and the rest is history. Back then, Foyles was the best source for textbooks, along with top pop titles and diverse specialist fields -- such as illustrated military uniforms through the ages. As befits its century of expertise, the customer list, past and present, is a Who's Who of arts and politics. Christina Foyle instituted a literary luncheon, which since 1930 has attracted more than 700 top authors to speak at the ballroom in Grosvenor House; check the Web site or call for details. Since 1999 Foyles has undergone a massive modernization program. Far from catering only to the mass market, as many of the larger chain bookstores have done, the off-mainstream can still be found here. The Silver Moon for women, and Ray's Jazz, are stores within the store. Ensuring refreshment for the body as well as the mind, there's a café. Tube: Tottenham Court Rd.