Philip Howard's sophisticated set menus, in the modern French haute tradition, include dishes such as foie gras with fig and apple or hare with celeriac and pear tart, followed perhaps by macaroni and Alba truffles, or sea bass with thyme butter. All dishes are arranged carefully and symmetrically. The clientele is heavy on businesspeople who appreciate impeccable service, complete with a friendly (and necessary -- the wine list has the heft of a novel) sommelier. Reservations essential. Tube: Green Park.