The men's-club atmosphere at the Connaught's famous dining rooms in Mayfair was swept away by Gordon Ramsay's installation of his protégée Angela Hartnett and -- gasp! -- her all-women management team. The customer age range dropped 20 years, and now it's all modern European cooking (Italy, the Med, Pays Basque, and Spain), rather than carved beef from the trolley or steak-and-kidney pie. Rest assured, though: there are also interpretations of Connaught classics. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Tube: Green Park.