The clublike dining room here has a grown-up atmosphere and the service is formal. Chef Eric Chavot does classic French cooking, and many of his dishes are superb. Try the turbot with creamed baby leeks and mushroom ravioli. Desserts follow the same exciting route. Set-price menus at lunch (£28.50) make it somewhat more affordable than dinner. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Tube: Knightsbridge.