William Drabble continues to quietly forge his reputation here. His signature dishes are very accomplished, and often gamey -- boudin (sausage) of wood pigeon with foie gras, turnip, and truffle; best-end Cumbria lamb with onions, garlic, and rosemary. The restaurant is simply alluring, bathed in the hues of impressionist Provence. For a thrifty option, come for lunch. Reservations essential. Tube: S. Kensington.