It's a restaurant worthy of the courtyard setting of Somerset House, just off the Strand. London is rejecting fusion food, and Admiralty does fine French cuisine with simplicity and integrity. The snail ravioli in Chablis with artichokes is a classic starter, and the sea bass and saffron sauce tastes as good as it looks on the plate. There's lots on the menu for vegetarians. Tube: Charing Cross.