Converted from one of the more gorgeous "greasy spoon caffs" in town, this place retains Victorian fittings (including pewlike bench seats, which you have to share). It's not luxurious, but the grub is superior cafeteria food -- bangers and mash turns out to be homemade Toulouse sausage with veal gravy and fluffy potatoes; egg and chips isn't remotely greasy. You'll also find posh dishes, like salmon cakes and rump steak. And there's plenty of seafood on the menu, including lobster, caviar, oysters, clams, and jellied eels. Reservations essential. Tube: Farringdon.