It's London's favorite restaurant -- and thus hard to get into. In a wood-panel art deco room with blinding-white tablecloths and Howard Hodgkins paintings on the walls, the theater set eats Caesar salad, salmon cakes, English school food such as kedgeree and bubble and squeak, and baked Alaska for dessert. For star-trekking ("Don't look now, dear, but there's Ralph Fiennes") this is the prime spot in London. The weekend three-course lunch is a bargain at £19.50. Try walking in off the street for a table on short notice -- it's been known to work. Reservations essential. Tube: Covent Garden.