Not another Conran. The Cow belongs to Tom, son of Sir Terence, although it's a million miles from Bluebird. A chic gastro-pub, it comprises a faux-Dublin backroom bar that serves oysters, salmon cakes, and baked brill. Upstairs the chef whips up Anglo-French specialties -- cod and mash is one temptation. Notting Hillbillies love the house special -- a half-dozen Irish rock oysters with a pint of Guinness. Reservations essential. Tube: Westbourne Park.