You either love or hate Fergus Henderson's ultra-British cooking at this converted smokehouse. His chutzpah is scary: one appetizer is sliced pig spleen, although some of the others (roast bone marrow and parsley salad; smoked eel and horseradish) are less austere. Entrées (venison liver and boiled egg, haddock and fennel) appear stark on the plate but are presented with style. Expect an all-French wine list with affordable bottles, plus malmseys and ports. Try the rice pudding with plums, or the English Eccles cakes and Lancashire cheese. Reservations essential. Tube: Farringdon.