Though you can get around Las Vegas fine without a car, the best way to experience the city may be to drive it. A car gives you easy access to all the casinos and attractions, lets you make excursions to Lake Mead and elsewhere at your leisure, and gives you the chance to cruise the Strip and bask in its neon glow.

Parking on and around the Strip, although free, is not so easy. You'll have to brave some rather immense parking structures and walk up and down stairs or escalators. Valet parking is available if you're willing to wait your turn and tip the valets.

Taxis are an easy way to go door to door, although the downside is that you can't hail one off the street, so waiting in line at hotels is the only way to get a cab. During busy weekends, the wait can run anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes. Buses don't always run on time and they're frequently crowded. If you're not covering great distances, and when the weather is decent, the best way to get around Las Vegas is on foot.

The municipally operated Citizens Area Transit (CAT) (PHONE: 702/228-7433) runs local buses throughout the city and to most corners of the sprawling Las Vegas Valley. The overall quality of bus service along the main thoroughfares is decent. Most visitors only ride CAT buses up and down the Strip, between Mandalay Bay and the Stratosphere. Some continue on to the Downtown Transportation Center. If you're heading to outlying areas, you may need to change buses downtown. Mornings and afternoons the buses are frequently crowded, with standing-room only.

The fare for CAT buses on the Strip is $2 (exact change required; one-dollar bills are accepted). The buses stop on the street in front of all the major hotels every 15 minutes (in a perfect world), 24 hours a day. Since traffic is quite haphazard along the Strip, however, delays are frequent. Buses supposedly running every 15 minutes can take 25 to 30 minutes to show up. Other routes serve the Meadows and Boulevard shopping malls and Sam's Town Hotel and Casino on Boulder Highway. The schedule for all buses other than those along the Strip is 5:00 AM-1:00 AM daily; the fare is $1.25.

Las Vegas is an easy city to navigate. The principal north-south artery is Las Vegas Boulevard (I-15 runs roughly parallel to it, less than a mile to the west). A 3½-mi stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard South is the Strip, where a majority of the city's hotels and casinos are clustered. Many of the major streets running east-west (Tropicana Avenue, Flamingo Road, Desert Inn Road, Sahara Avenue) are named for the casinos built at their intersections with the Strip.

Because the capacity of the streets of Las Vegas has not kept pace with the city's incredible growth, traffic can be slow in the late afternoon, in the evening, and on the weekend. At those times, drive the streets that parallel Las Vegas Boulevard: Paradise Road to the east, and Industrial Road to the west. The Industrial Road shortcut (from Tropicana Avenue almost all the way to downtown) will save you an enormous amount of time. You can enter the parking lots at Caesars Palace, the Mirage, Treasure Island, the Stardust, the New Frontier, and Circus Circus from Industrial Road.

You can't park anywhere on the Strip itself, and Fremont Street in the casino district downtown is a pedestrian mall closed to traffic. Street parking regulations are strictly enforced in Las Vegas, and meters are continuously monitored, so whenever possible it's a good idea to leave your car in a parking lot. Free parking is available at virtually every hotel, although you may have to hunt for a space and you can wind up in the far reaches of immense parking lots. To avoid this, simply make use of valet parking. Parking in the high-rise structures downtown is generally free, as long as you validate your parking ticket at the casino cashier.

Car Rentals

Rates in Las Vegas average about $25 a day and $130 a week for an economy car with unlimited mileage. This does not include the 7.5% state sales tax and a 6% "license tag" fee. If you rent your car at the airport an additional 10% tax applies.

Owing to the large number of visitors who rent cars, there are many deals to be had at the airport for car rentals. During special events and conventions rates frequently go up as supply dwindles, but during other times bargains are to be had in Las Vegas. For the best deals, check with the various on-line services, or contact a representative of the hotel where you'll be staying, as many hotels have business relationships with car-rental companies.

Although there are several local car rental companies along the Strip itself, they tend to be more expensive than those at the airport or elsewhere in the city.

Major Agencies

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom, www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand, www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom, www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia, www.dollar.com).

Enterprise (PHONE: 800/325-8007, www.enterprise.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia, www.hertz.com).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom, www.nationalcar.com).

Local Agencies

Allstate/Payless (PHONE: 702/736-6147).

Brooks Rent-A-Car (PHONE: 702/735-3344).

Dream Car Rentals (PHONE: 702/731-6452, 702/895-6661, or 877/373-2601).

Rent-A-Vette (PHONE: 702/736-2592 or 800/372-1981).

Emergency Services

You can call 911 from most locations in Nevada to reach police, fire, or ambulance assistance. Otherwise, dial the operator. If you have a cellular or digital phone, dial *647 to reach the Nevada Highway Patrol.

Insurance

When driving a rented car you are generally responsible for any damage to or loss of the vehicle. You also may be liable for any property damage or personal injury that you may cause while driving. Before you rent, see what coverage you already have under the terms of your personal auto-insurance policy and credit cards.

For about $10 to $25 a day, rental companies sell protection, known as a collision- or loss-damage waiver (CDW or LDW), that eliminates your liability for damage to the car; it's always optional and should never be automatically added to your bill. In most states you don't need a CDW if you have personal auto insurance or other liability insurance. Some states, including Nevada, have capped the price of the CDW and LDW.

Requirements

In Nevada you must be 21 to rent a car, and several of the major car rental agencies (such as Hertz) have a minimum age of 25. Those agencies that do rent to those under 25 may charge you higher rates. There is no upper age limit for car rental.

Non-U.S. residents will need a reservation voucher, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver, when picking up a car.

Road Conditions

It might seem as if every road in Las Vegas is in a continuous state of expansion or repair. Orange highway cones, road-building equipment, and detours are ubiquitous. But once the roads are widened and repaved, they're efficient and comfortable. The city's traffic-light system is state-of-the-art, and you can often drive for miles on major thoroughfares, hitting green lights all the way. Signage is excellent, both on surface arteries and freeways. The local driving style is fast.

Rules of the Road

The speed limit on residential streets is 25 mph. On major thoroughfares it's 45 mph, though drivers often get impatient with people who obey the speed limit and pass on either side. On the interstate and other divided highways within the city the speed limit is a fast 65 mph; outside the city, the speed limit on I-15 is 70 and 75 mph. California's speed limit is 70 mph. Right turns are permitted on red lights after coming to a full stop.

Always strap children under age five or under 40 pounds into approved child-safety seats. In Nevada, children must wear seat belts regardless of where they're seated.

Las Vegas is heavily covered by taxicabs. You'll find cabs waiting at the airport and at every hotel in town. If you dine at a restaurant off the Strip, the restaurant will call a taxi to take you home.

The fare is $2.70 on the meter when you get in, plus $1.80 for every mile. Taxis are limited by law to carrying a maximum of four passengers, and there is no additional charge per person. No fees are assessed for luggage, but taxis leaving the airport are allowed to add an airport surcharge of $1.20.

Desert Cab (PHONE: 702/386-9102).

Whittlesea Henderson Cab (PHONE: 702/384-6111).

Checker/Yellow/Star (PHONE: 702/873-2000).

The Las Vegas Strip Trolleys (PHONE: 702/382-1404) are a bit more charming with their old-fashioned appearance, and they'll deliver you right to the door of most of the major casinos on the Strip. Bear in mind, however, that this door-to-door delivery makes them a little slower, as they have to fight the knots of cabs, limos, airport shuttles, and private vehicles that collect at every casino at any hour of the day.

From 9:30 AM to 1:30 AM, the Las Vegas Strip Trolley travels every 15 to 20 minutes among Strip hotels, with stops at Fashion Show Mall and Wet 'n Wild. The exact fare of $1.65 is required.

Las Vegas is a 24-hour city, 365 days a year. Casinos, bars, supermarkets, almost all petrol stations, even some health clubs and video stores cater to customers at all hours of the day and night (many people work odd hours here).

Museums & Sights

Most museums and attractions are open seven days a week.

Pharmacies

Most pharmacies are open seven days a week from 9-7.

Shops

Most stores are open weekdays 10-9, Saturday 9-6, and Sunday 11-6. The souvenir shops on the Strip and downtown remain open until midnight and some are open 24 hours. Grocery stores are open around the clock.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 litre of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20229. PHONE: 202/354-1000, www.customs.gov, Customer Satisfaction Unit, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.5A. Office of Passenger Programs, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.4D, PHONE: 202/927-0530).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Embassies are located in Washington, D.C. The closest consulate offices are in Los Angeles.

Australia

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20036. PHONE: 202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Australian Consulate-General (Century Plaza Towers, 19th floor, 2049 Century Park E, Los Angeles, CA, 90067. PHONE: 310/229-4800, FAX: 310/277-2258).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20001. PHONE: 202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

Canadian Consulate General (550 South Hope St., 9th floor, Los Angeles, CA, 90071. PHONE: 213/346-2700, FAX: 213/620-8827).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC, 20008. PHONE: 202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

New Zealand Consulate-General (12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1150, Los Angeles, CA, 90025. PHONE: 310/207-1605, FAX: 310/207-3605).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20008. PHONE: 202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

British Consulate-General (11766 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 400, Los Angeles, CA, 90025. PHONE: 310/477-3322, FAX: 310/575-1450).

Ambulance (PHONE: 911).

Fire (PHONE: 911).

Police (PHONE: 911).

24-Hour Pharmacy

Walgreens (3765 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas, NV, USA. PHONE: 702/739-9645).

Boat Tours

The Desert Princess (Lake Mead marina, Las Vegas, NV, USA. PHONE: 702/293-6180), a 250-passenger Mississippi River-style stern-wheeler, cruises Lake Mead. Tours include 90-minute sightseeing cruises, two-hour dinner cruises, and three-hour dinner and dancing excursions.

Bus Tours

Gray Line Tours (4020 E. Lone Mountain Rd., Las Vegas, 89031. PHONE: 702/384-1234 or 800/634-6579) offers city tours, trips to Red Rock Canyon, Lake Mead, and Valley of Fire, and longer trips to the Grand Canyon and Death Valley.

Helicopter Tours

Helicopters do two basic tours in and around Las Vegas: a brief flyover of the Strip and a several-hour trip out to the Grand Canyon and back.

Sundance Helicopters (5596 Haven St., Las Vegas, 89119. PHONE: 702/736-0606, www.helicoptour.com).

The dry desert air in Las Vegas means that your body will need extra fluids, especially during the punishing summer months. Always drink lots of water even if you're not outside very much. When you're outdoors wear sunscreen in summer and always carry water with you if you plan a long walk.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, pharmacys, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

The Main Post Office (1001 E. Sunset Rd., Las Vegas, 89193. PHONE: 702/361-9472) is open from 7:30 AM to 9 PM weekdays, 8 AM to 4 PM on Saturdays. Lines are often long.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (one ounce or less) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

The prices of typical items in Las Vegas range from gratis to outrageous. For example, you can get a good deli sandwich at one of the rock-bottom casino snack bars (Riviera, Westward Ho) for $2-$3, or you can spend $12 for a skyscraper special at the Stage Deli in the Forum Shops at Caesars. A cup of coffee in a casino coffee shop will set you back $2-$2.50, while that same cuppa is free if you happen to be sitting at a nickel slot machine when the cocktail waitress comes by. A taxi from the airport to the MGM Grand goes as low as $10 if you tell the driver to take Tropicana Avenue and there's no traffic, or runs as high as $25 if you take the Airport Connector and there's a wreck on the freeway. The more you know about Las Vegas, the less it'll cost you.

The Strip is expensive and if you're on a budget then consider having meals at the buffets in downtown Las Vegas which are generally more of a bargain.

ATMs

ATMs are widely available in Las Vegas; they're at every bank and at most casinos, hotels, minimarts, convenience stores, and petrol stations as well. In addition, all casinos have cash-advance machines, which take credit cards. You just indicate how large a cash advance you want, and when the transaction is approved you pick up the cash at the casino cashier. But beware: you'll pay up to a 12% fee in addition to the usual cash-advance charges and interest rate for this convenience; in most cases, the credit card company begins charging interest the moment the advance is taken, so you will not have the usual grace period to pay your balance in full before interest begins to accrue.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins and "golden" dollar coins (the latter introduced in 2000) are rarely seen in circulation. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U. S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

Las Vegas and Reno-Tahoe international airports assess a $3 departure tax, or passenger facility charge. The hotel room tax is 10% in Las Vegas.

The sales tax in Las Vegas is 7.5%.

Tipping

More so than in other U.S. destinations, workers in Las Vegas are paid a minimum wage and rely on tips to make up the primary part of their income. At restaurants, a 15% tip is standard for waiters; up to 20% may be expected at more expensive establishments. The same goes for taxi drivers, bartenders, and hairdressers. Coat-check operators usually expect $1; bellhops and porters should get 50¢ to $1 per bag. Maids should receive at least 4%-5% of the room-rate total, before taxes, for rooms that cost $100 a night or more. If the room is less than $100 per night, then 3%-4%. If the hotel charges a service fee, be sure to ask what it covers, as it may include this gratuity. A 50¢ or $1 tip per drink is appropriate for cocktail waitresses, even when they bring you a free drink at a slot machine or casino table.

On package tours, conductors and drivers usually get $10 per day from the group as a whole; check whether this has already been figured into your cost. For local sightseeing tours, you may individually tip the driver-guide $1 if he or she has been helpful or informative.

Tip dealers with the equivalent of your average bet once or twice an hour if you're winning; slot-machine change personnel and keno runners are accustomed to a buck or two. Ushers in showrooms may be able to get you better seats for performances for a gratuity of $5 or more. Tip the concierge 10%-20% of the cost for a ticket to a hot show. Tip $5-$10 for making dinner reservations or arrangements for other attractions.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London, W1A 2JB.) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, BT1 6EQ, Northern Ireland. PHONE: 028/9032-8239, www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, NSW, 2000. PHONE: 02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line, www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington. PHONE: 04/462-6000, usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland. PHONE: 09/303-2724, usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410, www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service, travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

The well-known areas of Las Vegas are among the safest places for visitors in the world. With so many people carrying so much cash, security is tight inside and out. The casinos have visitors under constant surveillance, and hotel security guards are never more than a few seconds away. Outside, police are highly visible, on foot and bicycles and in cruisers. But this doesn't mean you can throw all safety consciousness to the wind. You should take the same precautions you would in any city -- be aware of what's going on around you, stick to well-lighted areas, and quickly move away from any situation or people that might be threatening -- especially if you're carrying some gambling cash. It's wise not to stray too far off the three main streets downtown: Fremont, Ogden, and Carson between Main and Las Vegas Boulevard.

Be especially careful with your purse and change buckets around slot machines. Grab-and-run thieves are always looking for easy pickings, especially downtown.

Apart from their everyday vulnerability to aggressive men, women should have few problems with unwanted attention in Las Vegas. If something does happen inside a casino, simply go to any pit and ask a boss to call security. The problem will disappear in seconds. Outside, crowds are almost always thick on the Strip and downtown, and there's safety in numbers.

Men in Las Vegas need to be on guard against predatory women. "Trick roller" is the name of a particularly nasty breed of female con artist. These women are expert at meeting single men by "chance." After getting friendly in the casino, the woman joins the man in his hotel room, where she slips powerful knockout drugs into his drink and robs him blind. Some men don't wake up.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area code for Las Vegas is 702.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (the minimum amount is posted on the machine), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Before you go, contact the city and state tourism offices for general information. When you get there, visit the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority, next door to the Las Vegas Hilton, for brochures and general information. Hotels and gift shops on the Strip have maps, brochures, pamphlets, and free events magazines -- What's On in Las Vegas,Las Vegas Today, and Tourguide -- that list shows and buffets and offer discounts to area attractions.

The Las Vegas Advisor, a 12-page monthly newsletter, keeps up-to-the-minute track of the constantly changing Las Vegas landscapes of gambling, accommodations, dining, entertainment, Top Ten Values, complimentary offerings, and more, and is an indispensable resource for any Las Vegas visitor. Send $5 for a sample issue.

Tourist Offices

City Tourist Information

Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority (3150 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas, NV, 89109. PHONE: 702/892-0711, FAX: 702/892-2824, www.lvcva.com).

Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce (3720 Howard Hughes Pkwy., Las Vegas, NV, 89109. PHONE: 702/735-1616, FAX: 702/735-2011).

Las Vegas Advisor (3687 S. Procyon Ave., Las Vegas, NV, 89103. PHONE: 702/252-0655 or 800/244-2224).

State Tourist Information

Nevada Commission on Tourism (401 N. Carson St., Carson City, NV, 89701. PHONE: 800/638-2328, FAX: 702/687-6779).

At Home

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE: 905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact the United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London, W1A 1EN. PHONE: 020/7495-4466).

Las Vegas is a year-round destination. Except for the first three weeks in December and weekdays during July, you can assume that Las Vegas will be running at full speed. Weekends, always crowded, are especially jam-packed for the Super Bowl, Valentine's Day, President's Day, the NCAA Final Four, Easter, Cinco de Mayo, Memorial Day, July 4, and Labor Day. The week between Christmas and New Year's is the most crowded week of the year. In addition, nearly 50 conventions of more than 10,000 participants are held here every year; prices skyrocket, availability plummets, and the hordes fill every open space. Sporting events, such as boxing matches, golf tournaments, the National Finals Rodeo and the NASCAR Winston Cup Las Vegas 400, also have a major impact on the crowd situation.

It's a good idea to contact the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority (PHONE: 702/892-0711, www.lvcva.com) to find out who or what will be in town at the time you're planning to visit.

During a "normal" week -- that fairly rare time of no conventions, holidays, title fights, or local events -- you can count on Sunday through Thursday being less crowded, less expensive, and less stressful than the weekend. During even a routine weekend, however, traffic jams -- along with competition for room, restaurant, and show reservations, as well as spots at the slots or tables -- can be ferocious.

The most comfortable times to be in Las Vegas are the spring and fall. In April and May, daytime temperatures are delightful, between 70 and 90°F. In September and October, the summer heat has abated, and the pools remain open.

Winter is a distinctly different season, with snowcapped mountains in the distance, windy and chilly days, and surprisingly cold nights. The three weeks before Christmas find Las Vegas nearly deserted, with rooms going for bargain rates and hardly a traffic jam on the Strip.

Summer is a time of dry, uncomfortably hot weather (sometimes litreally 110°F in the shade), when lounging at an outdoor pool requires protection from the relentless desert sun. You'll probably find yourself continuously thirsty. At the height of the heat, however, hotels offer their lowest rates.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Las Vegas:

January 28-60°F (-2 to 16°C); February 33-66°F (1-19°C); March 39-71°F (4-22°C); April 44-80°F (7-27°C); May 51-89°F (11-32°C); June 60-98°F (16-37°C); July 68-102°F (20-39°C); August 66-102°F (19-39°C); September 57-95°F (14-35°C); October 46-84°F (8-29°C); November 35-71°F (2-22°C); December 30-60°F (-1 to 16°C).

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).