Amsterdam is relatively small as metropolises go and you can virtually connect all the main sites in a five-hour stroll. Happily, however, Amsterdam also has a full-scale bus and tram system -- the GVB (city transport company) -- that can whisk you from sector to sector, and attraction to attraction, throughout the city. Buses and trams run frequently; schedules and routes are posted at stops. In addition, somewhat surprisingly for this water-bound and centuries-old city, Amsterdam also has a subway, referred to as the metro, with lines running southeast and southwest.

Once you understand the fanlike pattern of Amsterdam's geography, you will have an easier time getting around; most trams and buses begin and end their journeys at Centraal Station, sightseeing and shopping are focused at Dam Square and Museumplein, and the arts and nightlife are centered in the areas of Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein, and Waterlooplein. There are usually maps of Amsterdam's full transport network in individual shelters, and diagrams of routes are found on board.

Streets radiate outward from Centraal Station; in general, street numbers go up in numerical sequence as you move in a direction away from Centraal Station. Don't let common address abbreviations confuse you. BG stands for Begane Grond (ground floor); SOUT for Soutterrain (sub-level/basement apartment); HS for Huis (a ground-floor apartment or main entry). Some common geographical abbreviations are str. for straat (street); gr. for gracht (canal); and pl. for plein (square). For example: Leidsestr., Herengr., or Koningspl.

Bicycling is the most convenient way to see Amsterdam. There are bike lanes on all major streets, bike racks in key locations, and special bike parking indentations in the pavement. To rent a bicycle, you'll pay from EUR6.50 per day, plus a deposit of about EUR50 per bike, and need a passport or other identification. The more days you rent, the cheaper the price, and rates by the week are even more competitive. Bikes can be rented at outlets near railway stations or by contacting rental centers.

Never leave your bike unlocked: there is a rapid turnover of stolen bikes no matter what quality or condition. Use a "D" lock, which can't be cut with the average thieves' tools, and lock your bike's frame to something that can't be shifted, such as a railing. Never buy a bicycle from someone on the street; it has probably just been stolen.

Nearly every Amsterdam resident has a bike; don't be surprised to see entire families cycling, from toddlers to octogenarians, with special seats for infants and bike baskets for dogs. As a cyclist, you'll notice that most fellow cyclers don't really observe the traffic signs and rules, nor do they stay in the bicycle lanes marked out for them, unless the road has particularly heavy traffic. However, as a result of accidents caused by aggressive cyclists, fines and other penalties are being rigorously imposed (you can also be fined for riding at night with no lights, and for drunken cycling). Cars that are turning across your path are supposed to stop for you, but it is wise to watch out. Another danger is getting your wheel stuck in tram rails; a nasty fall could result, especially since protective headgear is not legally required.

Maps and route guides for Amsterdam and side trips are available at larger bookstores such as Scheltema on the Koningsplein and from the ANWB (Royal Dutch Touring Club) or the VVV (Netherlands Board of Tourism information offices), although bicycle tracks between towns are so well signposted that you do not have to rely on a map.

Bike Rentals

Bike City (Bloemgracht 70, Amsterdam, Netherlands. PHONE: 020/626-3721) is near the Anne Frank House.

Damstraat Rent-a-Bike (Damstraat 22, Amsterdam, Netherlands. PHONE: 020/625-5029) is near the Dam Square.

MacBike (Mr. Visserplein 2, Amsterdam, Netherlands. PHONE: 020/620-0985, Marnixstraat 220, PHONE: 020/626-6964; Stationsplein 12, PHONE: 020/624-8391) -- the most popular rental firm in town -- has various rental points around the city center.

Free city maps are generally available at VVV (tourist offices), and more detailed city maps can be bought at bookstores or large petrol stations.

Car Rentals

The major car rental firms have convenient booths at Schiphol Airport, but the airport charges rental companies a fee that is passed on to customers, so you'll get a better deal at downtown locations.

Rates in Amsterdam vary from company to company; daily rates start at approximately $55 for a one-day rental and $200 for a week's rental. This does not include collision insurance or airport fee. Tax is included and weekly rates often include unlimited mileage. In general, cars in Europe are stick shift. An automatic transmission will cost a little extra.

In Amsterdam

Avis (Nassaukade 380, Oud West. PHONE: 020/683-6061).

Budget (Overtoom 121, Vondelpark. PHONE: 020/604-1349, www.budget.com).

Hertz (Overtoom 333, Vondelpark. PHONE: 020/612-2441).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696, www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand, www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K., www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K. where it's affiliated with the Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia, www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia, www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K., www.nationalcar.com).

Emergency Services

If you haven't joined a motoring organization, the ANWB (Royal Dutch Touring Club) (PHONE: 0800/0888 emergency number; 070/314-7147 office number, www.anwb.nl), charges EUR100 for 24-hour road assistance. If you aren't a member, you can call the ANWB after breaking down, but you must pay a EUR78 on-the-spot membership charge. Emergency crews may not accept credit cards or checks when they pick you up.

To call for assistance push the help button on any yellow ANWB phone located every kilometer (½ mi) on highways, and a dispatch operator immediately figures out where you are. Alternatively, ring their 24-hour emergency line or their information number for details about their road rescue service.

Petrol

Petrol stations are generally open Monday-Saturday 6 or 7 AM-10 or noon. All stations have self-service pumps. Petrol stations on the motorways are open 24 hours. Unleaded regular costs about EUR1.30 per litre.

Parking

Parking space is at a premium in Amsterdam as in most towns, but especially in the Centrum (historic town center), which has narrow, one-way streets with large areas given over to pedestrians. Most neighborhoods are metered from 9 AM to 7 PM, so it is a good idea (if not the only option) to leave your car only in designated parking areas. Parkeren (parking lots) are indicated by a white P in a blue square. Illegally parked cars get clamped by the Dienst Parkheerbeheer (Parking Authority) and, after 24 hours, if you haven't paid for the clamp to be removed, towed. You'll be towed immediately in some areas of the city. If you get clamped, a sticker on the windshield indicates where you should go to pay the fine (from EUR63 to more than EUR100).

Requirements

Your driver's license may not be recognized outside your home country. International Driver's Permits (IDPs) are available from the American and Canadian automobile associations and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association and Royal Automobile Club. These international permits, valid only in conjunction with your regular driver's license, are universally recognized; having one may save you a problem with local authorities.

You must be at least 21 to rent a car, and rental companies prefer that you be at least 25. Some companies will rent to 21-year-olds if the renter pays a surcharge, and some won't rent to anyone under 25, but it depends on the company.

Road Conditions

A network of well-maintained super highways and secondary roads makes car travel convenient, but traffic is exceptionally heavy around the bigger cities, especially on the roads in the Randstad.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the right, and regulations are largely as in Britain and the United States. Speed limits are 120 kph (75 mph) on superhighways, 100 kph (62 mph) on urban area highways, and 50 kph (30 mph) on suburban roads.

For safe driving, go with the flow, stay in the slow lane unless you want to pass, and make way for faster cars wanting to pass you. In cities and towns, approach crossings with care; local drivers may exercise the principle of priority for traffic from the right with some abandon. Although the majority of cyclists observe the stoplights and general road signs, many do not aggressively expect you, even as a driver, to give way. The latest ruling states that unless otherwise marked, all traffic coming from the right has priority, even bicycles. The driver and front seat passenger are required to wear seat belts, and other passengers are required to wear available seat belts. Fines for driving after drinking are heavy, including the suspension of license and the additional possibility of six months' imprisonment.

The transit map published by GVB (Prins Hendrikkade 108-114, Centrum. PHONE: 0900/9292, www.gvb.nl, Gemeentelijk Vervoer Bedrijf/City transport company) is very useful. It's available at the GVB ticket office across from the central railway station or at the VVV tourist information offices next door. It is also reprinted as the center spread in Day by Day in Amsterdam, the monthly guide to activities and shopping published by the tourist office. The map shows the locations of all major museums, monuments, theaters, and markets, and it tells you which trams to take to reach them. The GVB also has a very useful site with transportation information in English with route maps.

At every bus and tram stop there is a time schedule. Although the bus or tram may not arrive at the exact time listed, the time between arrivals is fairly accurate. You can also discover if the stop is on the route of a night bus. Note that all public transport is smoke-free.

Metro

Amsterdam has a full-fledged subway system, the metro, but travelers will usually find trams and buses more convenient for getting around, as most metro stops are geared for city residents traveling to the outer suburbs. However, the Amsterdam metro can get you from point A to point C in a quantum leap -- for instance, from Centraal Station (at the northern harbor edge of the city) to Amstel Station (a train station at the southeastern area of the city, with connections to many buses and trams) -- much faster than a tram, which makes many stops along the way. A strippenkaart is used the same way as for other public transport.

Trams & Buses

Many tram and bus routes start from the hub at Centraal Station (Stationsplein, Amsterdam, Netherlands. PHONE: 0900-9292 public transportation information).

A large bus depot is located on the Marnixstraat, across from the main police station, and there's another one at Harlemmermeer station in the Overtoomseveld neighborhood of western Amsterdam. Trams and buses run from about 6 AM to midnight daily. The tram routes, with a network of 130 km (80 mi) of track, make this characteristic form of transport more useful than the bus for most tourists. Night owls can make use of the hourly night-bus services, with double frequency on Friday and Saturday night, but routes are restricted.

Between stops, trams brake only when absolutely necessary, so listen for warning bells if you are walking or cycling near tram lines. Taxis use tram lines, but other cars are allowed to venture onto them only when turning right. The newer fleets of buses are cleaner, and therefore nicer to use, and bus lanes (shared only with taxis) remain uncongested, ensuring that you travel more swiftly than the rest of the traffic in rush hour. If the bus is very crowded, you may have to stand, so hold on to a handrail, as the buses can travel quite fast; to avoid rush hour, don't travel between 8 and 9 in the morning or between 4:30 and 5:30 in the afternoon. As with all urban systems of transportation, keep an eye out for pickpockets.

De Opstapper

A great new public transport option is the Opstapper, a transit van that traverses the elegant Prinsengracht -- heart of the historic canal sector -- between Centraal Station and the Music Theater. For a one-zone stamp on your strippenkaart, you can get on or off anywhere along the Prinsengracht. You can hail it on the street, or get on at its starting point in front of Centraal Station. There are no fixed stops. It passes within walking distance of the Anne Frank House, the Leidseplein, and maybe even your hotel. The buses run every ten minutes from 7:30 AM to 6:30 PM. There are eight seats and room for an additional eight standing passengers.

Ferries

Four ferry lines leave from Centraal Station, but only one is of any interest to tourists. The Buiksloterwegveer leaves from Pier 7 behind Centraal Station every 8 to 15 minutes, day and night. The ferry transports pedestrians, cyclists, and motorcyclists across the IJ channel to North Amsterdam. There is no fee for the service. North Amsterdam may prove to be less interesting than the refreshing trip, which takes about five minutes.

Tickets & Strippenkaart

The same ticket can be used in buses, trams, and metros throughout Holland. Enkele Reis (single-ride tickets) are valid for one hour only and can be purchased from tram and bus drivers for EUR1.60. However, it is far more practical to buy a strippenkaart (strip ticket) that includes 2 to 45 "strips," or ticket units. The best buy for most visitors is the 15-strip ticket for EUR6.20. A 45-strip ticket costs EUR18.30. Although newer trams have ticket control booths, by tradition, Dutch trams and buses work on the honor system: upon boarding, punch your ticket at one of the machines in the rear or center section of the tram or bus. The city is divided into zones, which are indicated on the transit map, and it is important to punch the correct number of zones on your ticket (one for the basic tariff and one for each zone traveled).

The All Amsterdam Transport Pass costs EUR19 and entitles you to a day of unlimited travel on tram, bus, metro and Canal Bus plus coupons worth about EUR 133 for major attractions, snacks, etc. This pass can be purchased at the GVB ticket office in front of Centraal Station and at the main Canal Bus office at Prins Hendrikkade. The recently introduced electronic Amsterdam Culture Pass provides free and discount admissions to many of the city's top museums, plus a free canal round-trip, free use of public transport, and a 25% discount on various attractions and restaurants; savings can amount to more than EUR100. A one-day pass costs EUR26, two days costs EUR36 and three days costs EUR46. The pass comes with a booklet in Dutch, English, French, and German. It can be purchased at branches of the VVV (Netherlands Board of Tourism), the GVB (City Transport Company), both at Centraal Station, and through some hotels and museums.

Amsterdam is divided into zones, and the fare you pay depends on the number of zones you travel through. You can easily travel within one zone (two strips), but to travel across Amsterdam takes you through four (five strips) zones. These zones are displayed on transport maps. Each journey you make costs one strip plus the number of zones you travel through. When you get on a bus, you show the driver your strippenkaart and simply say where your final destination is, or the number of zones you plan to travel through, and let him or her stamp the strips.

In a metro you have to stamp your ticket yourself in the small yellow machines found near the doors, and you can often do this in a tram. Count the number of strips you need, fold your ticket at the bottom of the last strip required, and stamp the final strip in the machine. A stamp on a strip uses that, and the strips above it. This may seem confusing, but it needn't be. Always count one more "strip" than the number of zones through which you pass. If you're staying within the center city Centrum, it's always two zones, so stamp three strips. If unsure, ask a fellow passenger, the ticket controller or the driver. Two or more people can travel on the same strippenkaart, but the appropriate number of units must be stamped for each person.

The newest trams in Amsterdam (recognizable by their extra-large windows) have ticket control booths in the center of the tram. You may board the tram only there, unless you already have a valid stamp on your ticket, in which case you may board at the front and show your ticket to the driver. On older trams, you can usually board only at the rear, where you will encounter either a ticket controller (conducteur) or a stamping machine. This makes for a lot of confusion, as you need to be in the right place when the tram arrives. Follow the lead of other passengers to be sure you don't miss getting on.

The stamp indicates the zone where the journey started, and the time, and remains valid for one hour, so you can travel within the zones you have stamped until the hour is up. If you make a mistake and stamp too many strips, tell the driver and he or she will put a sticker over the incorrect stamp.

Teams of ticket inspectors occasionally make spot checks. This doesn't happen often, but if you are checked and you don't have a stamped strippenkaart, you face a EUR29.40 fine.

Vacant taxis on the move through the streets are often on call to their dispatcher. Occasionally, if you get lucky, they'll stop for you if you hail them but the regular practice is to wait by a taxi stand or phone them. Taxi stands are at the major squares and in front of the large hotels.

You can also call Taxicentrale (PHONE: 020/677-7777), the main dispatching office. Fares are EUR2.90, plus EUR1.80 per kilometer (half mile). A 5-km (3-mi) ride will cost about EUR12.

A new initiative in the city is the Wielertaxi (PHONE: 020/672-1149, bike taxi), which resembles a larger version of a child's pedal-car and isn't very practical in the rain.

Water Taxi (PHONE: 020/535-6363, www.water-taxi.nl) provides a novel, if pricey, means of getting about. Water taxis can be hailed anytime you see one cruising the canals of the city, or called by telephone. The boats are miniature versions of the large sightseeing canal boats, and each carries up to eight passengers. The cost is EUR75 for a half hour, including pick-up charge, with a charge of EUR60 each half-hour period thereafter. The rate is per ride, regardless of the number of passengers.

Banks & Offices

Banks are open weekdays 9:30 to 4 or 5, with some extending their business hours to coordinate with late-night shopping. Some banks are closed Monday mornings.

The main post office is open weekdays, 9 to 6, Saturday 10 to 1:30. In every post office you'll also find the Postbank, a money-changing facility, which has the same opening hours.

Bars & Restaurants

As a general guide, bars in Amsterdam open at various times during the day and close at 1 AM throughout the week, at 2 or 3 AM on Friday and Saturday. Restaurants are open evenings 5-11, (with a few open until early morning), although some kitchens close as early as 9, and many are closed on Sunday and Monday.

Museums & Sights

Major sights, such as Amsterdam's Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Dam Palace) have summer opening hours; churches and cathedrals are open 9-3; parks are open dawn to dusk; the scenic courtyard hofjes (almshouses) are usually open at the discretion of the inhabitants. Museum hours vary; to give some instances, the city's famous Van Gogh museum is open 10-6, and the Anne Frank House is open 9-7 and until 9 in summer.

Note that when we refer to summer hours, it means approximately Easter to October; winter hours run from November to Easter.

Shops

Most shops are open from 1 to 6 on Monday, 9 to 6 Tuesday through Saturday. Hairdressers are generally closed Sunday and Monday. If you really need a haircut on those days, try a salon at one of the larger hotels. Thursday is a designated late-night shopping night -- "Koopavond" (buying evenings) -- with stores staying open until 9. Markts (markets) selling fruit, flowers, and other wares run from 10 to 4 or sometimes 5. Small avondwinkels (late-night shops) selling food, wine, and toiletries, are open from afternoon till midnight or later. Supermarkets are open weekdays until 8 or 10 PM and Saturday until 5 or 8 PM, with some (such as Albert Heijn on the Leidsestraat, Dam, and Museumplein) open on Sundays from 11 to 7.

Arriving in the Netherlands

There are no limits on goods (such as perfume, cigarettes, or alcohol) brought into the Netherlands from another EU country. If entering from a non-EU country, every person 17 and older is allowed to bring in 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 100 small cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; 1 litre of alcohol (more than 22%) or 2 litres (less than 22%), 50 grams of perfume and.25 litre cologne, 500 grams of coffee, 100 grams of tea, and other goods with a total value of up to EUR57.

There are no restrictions regarding the import or export of currency.

The electrical current in The Netherlands is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs.

Australia

Australian Embassy (Carnegielaan 4, The Hague. PHONE: 070/310-8200).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Sophialaan 7, The Hague. PHONE: 070/311-1600).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (Carnegielaan 10, The Hague. PHONE: 070/346-9324).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (Lange Voorhout 10, The Hague. PHONE: 070/427-0427).

United States

U.S. Embassy (Lange Voorhout 102, The Hague. PHONE: 070/310-9209). There is a U.S. Consulate's Office (Museumplein 19, Amsterdam, Netherlands. PHONE: 020/575-5309) in Amsterdam.

Police, ambulance, and fire (PHONE: 112 toll-free 24-hour switchboard for emergencies).

The 24-hour help-line service Afdeling Inlichtingen Apotheken (PHONE: 020/694-8709, apotheken means "pharmacy") can direct you to your nearest open pharmacy; there is a rotating schedule to cover evenings, nights, and weekends -- details are also posted at your local apotheken, and in the city newspapers.

The Centraal Doktorsdienst/Atacom (Medical Center, PHONE: 020/592-3434) offers a 24-hour English-speaking help line providing advice about medical symptoms.

In the case of minor accidents, phone directory inquiries (PHONE: 0900/8008) to get the number for the outpatients' department at your nearest ziekenhuis (hospital).

TBB (PHONE: 020/570-9595 or 0900/821-2230) is a 24-hour dental service that refers callers to a dentist (or tandarts). Operators can also give details of pharmacies open outside normal hours.

For less urgent police matters, call the central number (PHONE: 0900/8844).

The city's police headquarters is at the crossing Marnixstraat/Elandsgracht and can be reached with tram lines 3, 7, 12, or 17.

Hospitals

For emergency treatment, the AMC and Sint Lucas hospitals have first-aid departments.

The largest, most modern hospital serving Amsterdam and surroundings is the AMC (Academisch Medisch Centrum) (Meibergdreef 9, Amsterdam Zuidoost, 1105 AZ. PHONE: 020/566-9111). It's outside the city proper, in the Holendrecht area.

OLV (Onze Lieve Vrouwengasthuis)/Prinsengracht (Prinsengracht 769, Amsterdam, 1017 JZ. PHONE: 020/599-2323) is just off Leidsestraat.

OLV (Onze Lieve Vrouwengasthuis)/Oosterpark (Eerste Oosterparkstraat 279, Amsterdam, 1091 HA. PHONE: 020/599-9111) is in Oost.

The Sint Lucas Ziekenhuis (Jan Tooropstraat 164, Amsterdam, 1061 AE. PHONE: 020/510-8911) is in the western part of the city, in Geuzenveld.

Slotervaart Ziekenhuis (Louweswg 6, Amsterdam, 1066 EC. PHONE: 020/512-9333) is in the southwestern part of the city.

The VU Medisch Centrum (De Boelelaan 1117, Amsterdam, 1081 HV. PHONE: 020/444-4444) is a university teaching hospital in the Buitenveldert area.

Bicycle Tours

From April through October, guided 1½- to 3-hour bike trips through the central area of the city are available through Yellow Bike (NieuweZijde Kolk 29, Centrum. PHONE: 020/620-6940, www.yellowbike.nl).

Let's Go (VVV Netherlands Board of Tourism, Centraal Station, Centrum. www.letsgo-amsterdam.com) tours (contact the VVV for further details) takes you out of the city center by train before introducing you to the safer cycling of the surrounding countryside. Its tours include Edam and Volendam, Naarden and Muiden, and, in season, a Tulip Tour.

Boat Tours

The quickest, easiest, and (frankly) most delightful way to get your bearings in Amsterdam is to take a canal-boat cruise. Trips last from 1 to 1½ hours and cover the harbor as well as the main canal district; there is a taped or live commentary available in four languages. Excursion boats leave from rondvaart (excursion piers) in various locations in the city every 15 minutes from March to October, and every 30 minutes in winter. Departures are frequent from Prins Hendrikkade near the Centraal Station, along the Damrak, and along the Rokin (near Muntplein), at Leidseplein, and Stadhouderskade (near the Rijksmuseum). For a tour lasting about an hour, the cost is around EUR8.50, but the student guides expect a small tip for their multilingual commentary. For a truly romantic view of Amsterdam, opt for one of the special dinner and candlelight cruises offered by some companies, notably Holland International. A candlelight dinner cruise costs upward of EUR24. Trips for all boat tours can also be booked through the tourist office.

Operators of canal cruises include Holland International, Meyers Rondvaarten, Rederij D'Amstel, Rederij Lovers, Rederij P. Kooij, Rederij Noord/Zuid, and Rederij Plas.

Several boat trips to museums are also available: Canalbus, which makes six stops along two different routes between Centraal Station and the Rijksmuseum, costs EUR15, including tickets and/or reductions for museums. Following a longer route is Museumboot Rederij Lovers, which makes seven stops near 20 different museums. The cost is EUR13.25 for a day ticket that entitles you to a 50% discount on admission to the museums. At Canal-Bike, a pedal boat for four costs EUR28 per hour.

The Canal Bike Waterfiets is a peddle-powered boat that seats up to four. You can tour the Grachtengordel ring of canals at your own pace. For one or two people, the hourly fee is EUR8 per person, and for three to four persons, it costs EUR7 per person, per hour. Rental hours are between 10 and 6:30 daily. There are five landing stages throughout the city, with two of the most popular ones located across from the Rijksmuseum and across from the Westerkerk.

Tour Operators

Canal bus (Nieuwe Weteringschans 24, Leidseplein. PHONE: 020/623-9886, www.canal.nl).

Holland International (Prins Hendrikkade, opposite Centraal Station, Centrum. PHONE: 020/622-7788).

Meyers Rondvaarten (Damrak 4, Dam. PHONE: 020/623-4208).

Museumboot Rederij Lovers (Stationsplein 8, Centrum. PHONE: 020/530-1090).

Amsterdam Canal Cruises (Nicolaas Witsenkade, opposite the Heineken Brewery, De Pijp. PHONE: 020/626-5636).

Rederij Lovers (Prins Hendrikkade 26 a, opposite Centraal Station, Centrum. PHONE: 020/530-1090).

Rederij P. Kooij (Rokin, near Spui, Centrum. PHONE: 020/623-3810).

Rederij Noord/Zuid (Stadhouderskade 25, opposite Parkhotel, Leidseplein. PHONE: 020/679-1370).

Rederij Plas (Damrak, quays 1-3, Dam. PHONE: 020/624-5406).

Bus Tours

Afternoon bus tours of the city operate daily. Itineraries vary, and prices range from EUR15 to EUR30. A 2½-hour city tour that includes a drive through the suburbs is offered by Key Tours. However, it must be said that this city of narrow alleys and canals is not best appreciated from the window of a coach. Also, a number of visitors feel unhappy that part of some tours involves a visit to a diamond factory, where they feel pressured into listening to a sales pitch. The same bus companies operate scenic trips to attractions outside the city.

Tour Operators

Key Tours (Dam 19, Dam. PHONE: 020/623-5051).

Lindbergh Excursions (Damrak 26, Dam. PHONE: 020/622-2766).

Walking Tours

The Amsterdam Tourist Board (VVV) maintains lists of personal guides and guided walking and cycling tours for groups in and around Amsterdam and can advise you on making arrangements. You can also contact Guidor-Nederlandse Gidsen Organisatie (Dutch Guides Organization). The costs are from EUR143 for a half day to EUR234 for a full day. The tourist office also sells brochures outlining easy-to-follow self-guided theme tours through the central part of the city. Among them are "A Journey of Discovery Through Maritime Amsterdam," "A Walk Through the Jordaan," "Jewish Amsterdam," and "Rembrandt and Amsterdam."

Walking tours focusing on art and architecture are organized by Artifex, Stichting Arttra, and Archivisie. For walking tours of the Jewish Quarter, contact Joods Historisch Museum. Yellow Bike Tours organizes two-hour walking tours of the Jordaan and the Red Light District.

Probably the best deal in town is Mee in Mokum, which offers walking tours led by retired longtime residents. For a mere EUR2.50, you are given an entertaining three-hour educational tour of the inner city or the Jordaan, focusing on architecture and surprising facts. These tours are also popular with Amsterdammers who wish to discover new things about their city. The admission fee entitles you to reduced fees to a choice of museums and a reduction in the price of a pancake at a nearby restaurant. Tours are held daily and start promptly at 11 AM. You must reserve at least a day in advance. Tours are limited to eight people; private arrangements can also be made for other times of the day.

Tour Operators

Archivisie. Mailing address: Postbus 14603, Amsterdam, 1001 LC, Netherlands. PHONE: 020/625-8908.

Artifex (Herengracht 342, Grachtengordel, 1016 CG. PHONE: 020/620-8112).

Arttra Cultureel Orgburo (Staalstraat 28, Amsterdam, 1011 JM, Netherlands. PHONE: 020/625-9303, www.arttra.com).

Guidor -- Nederlandse Gidsen Organisatie (Hemsbrugstraat 11, Amsterdam, Netherlands. PHONE: 020/624-6072 or 020/627-0006).

Joods Historisch Museum (Jonas Daniel Meyerplein 2-4, Postbus 16737, Plantage, 1001 RE. PHONE: 020/626-9945, FAX: 020/624-1721).

Mee in Mokum (Hartenstraat 18, Jordaan. PHONE: 020/625-1390 call between 1 and 4).

Yellow Bike (NieuweZijde Kolk 29, Centrum. PHONE: 020/620-6940, www.yellowbike.nl).

There are two official Dutch languages: Dutch, used across the country, and Friese, used in the north. In Amsterdam, as in all the other major cities and towns, English is widely spoken. State schools teach English to pupils as young as eight, and with English TV youngsters often have a smattering of authentic-sounding vocabulary before they even get into learning English at school. Not only is it the country's strong second language, but the general public is very happy to help English-speaking visitors, to the extent that even if you ask in Dutch they answer cheerfully in English. Signs and notices often have duplicated information in English, if not more languages.

For mail destined for outside the local area, use the overige bestemmingen slot in mailboxes. The national postal service's logo is PTT POST (white letters on a red oblong). The Dutch mail system can be slower than you'd expect, so allow about 10 days for mail to and from the United States and Canada and up to a week to and from the United Kingdom. For postal information within The Netherlands call tel. 0800/0417.

Postal Rates

Airmail letters to the United States and Canada cost EUR.75 for the first 20 grams and EUR1.50 up to 50 grams. Always make sure that your stamps have a blue "priority" sign on them, or write "priority" in big, clear letters to the side of the address. Postcards cost a universal EUR.54, no matter where they are destined to go. Letters (for the first 20 grams) to the United Kingdom, as well as to any other EU country, cost EUR.59. Letters sent within The Netherlands cost EUR.39 for the first 20 grams. You can buy postzegels (stamps) with postcards from tobacconists, the post office, the VVV, and souvenir shops.

Receiving Mail

Correspondence can be addressed to you care of the Dutch post office. Letters should be addressed to your name, followed by "Poste Restante" on the next line, then the address of the main post office or the one nearest you in Amsterdam. The main office is Postkantoor, Oosterdokskd 3, 1011AD Amsterdam, near Centraal Station. You can collect it from the post office by showing your passport or photo-bearing ID. American Express also has a general delivery service. There is no charge for cardholders, holders of American Express traveler's checks, or for those who booked the vacation with American Express.

The price tags in Amsterdam are considered reasonable in comparison with those in main cities in neighboring countries. Good value for money can still be had in many places, and as a tourist in this Anglophile country you are a lot less likely to get ripped off in The Netherlands than in countries where English is less-widely embraced.

Here are some sample prices: admission to the Rijksmuseum is EUR9 cheapest seats at the Stadsschouwbourg theater run EUR12 for plays, EUR20 for opera; EUR6.50-EUR 9.50 for a ticket at a movie theater (depending on time of show). Going to a nightclub might set you back EUR5-EUR20. A daily English-language newspaper is EUR3-EUR5. A taxi ride (1 1/3 km, or 1½ mi) costs about EUR4.55. An inexpensive hotel room for two, including breakfast, is about EUR65-EUR125, an inexpensive dinner is EUR20-EUR35 for two, and a half-litre carafe of house wine is EUR11. A simple sandwich item on the menu runs to about EUR2.50, a cup of coffee EUR2. A Coke is EUR1.40, and a half litre of beer is EUR2.95.

ATMs

The Dutch word for ATM is Pin Automaat; many locals call the machines simply "pin."

Currency

January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of euro coins and notes. The former local currency, the guilder, ceased to be legal tender in mid-February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro is also used in Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Portugal, Spain, Martinique, St. Barths, and St. Martin.

Exchanging Money

These days, the easiest way to get euros is through ATMs. An ATM is called pin automaat, and you can find them in airports, train stations, and throughout the city. ATM rates are excellent because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. It's a good idea, however, to bring some euros with you from home and always to have some cash and traveler's checks as backup. For the best deal when exchanging currencies not within the Monetary Union purview (the U.S. dollar, the yen, and the English pound are examples), compare rates at banks (which usually have the most favorable rates) and booths and look for exchange booths that clearly state "no commission." At exchange booths always confirm the rate with the teller before exchanging money. You won't do as well at exchange booths in Schipol or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get some euros before you leave home.

GWK/Grenswisselkantoren (Centraal Station, Amsterdam, Netherlands. PHONE: 020/627-2731) located in the hall of Centraal Station is a nationwide financial organization specializing in foreign currencies, where travelers can exchange cash and traveler's checks, receive cash against major credit cards, and receive Western Union money transfers. Many of the same services are available at banks, and cash can be exchanged at any post office.

There's a GWK office at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (PHONE: 020/653-5121).

Taxes

Hotel

The service charge and the 6% VAT (Value-Added Tax), or BTW, are almost always included in the rate. Tourist tax is never included and is 5% extra. Always inquire when booking.

Restaurant

In a restaurant you pay 5% service charge, 6% VAT on food items, and 19% VAT on all beverages, all of which are included in the menu prices.

Value-Added Tax

Value-Added Tax (VAT or BTW) is 19% on clothes and luxury goods, 6% on basic goods. On most consumer goods, it is already included in the amount on the price tag, so you can't actually see what percentage you're paying.

Tipping

The following guidelines apply in Amsterdam, but the Dutch tip smaller amounts in smaller cities and towns. In restaurants a service charge of about 6% is included in menu prices. Tip 10% extra if you've really enjoyed the meal and you got good service, and leave the tip as change rather than putting it on your credit card. If you're not satisfied, don't leave anything. Though a service charge is also included in hotel, taxi, bar, and café bills, the Dutch mostly round up the change to the nearest two euros for large bills and to the nearest euro for smaller ones. In taxis, round up the fare to 10% extra. Rest room attendants expect only change, EUR.25, and a cloakroom attendant in an average bar expects EUR.50 per coat (more in expensive hotels and restaurants).

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering the Netherlands

All U.S., Canadian, and U.K. citizens, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter The Netherlands for stays of up to 90 days.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3. PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410, www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service, travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Amsterdam is unlike any other modern metropolis: although it has had certain problems with crime, and with abuse of legalized prostitution and soft drugs, the serious crime rate is exceptionally low, so having your bike stolen is the worst thing most likely to happen to you. Still, in crowded intersections and dark alleys, it is always best to be streetwise and take double safety precautions; it may be best to keep your money in a money belt and not flaunt your expensive camera. Be especially wary of pickpockets in crowds and while riding the tram. Although it is easy to lose yourself in a romantic 18th-century haze taking a midnight stroll along the canals in Amsterdam, remember that muggings can occur. Late at night, it may be best to keep to the main streets and not venture down deserted alleyways.

The country code for The Netherlands is 31. The area code for Amsterdam is 020. To call an Amsterdam number within Amsterdam, you don't need the city code: just dial the seven-digit number. To call Amsterdam from elsewhere in The Netherlands, dial 020 at the start of the number. In addition to the standard city codes, there are three other prefixes used: public information numbers starting with 0800 are free phone numbers, but the information lines with the prefix 0900 are charged at premium rates (35¢ a minute or more), and 06 numbers indicate mobile (cell) phones.

When dialing a Dutch number from abroad, you drop the initial zero from the local area code, so someone calling from New York, for example, to Amsterdam would dial 011 + 31 + 20 + the seven-digit phone number. From the United Kingdom, dial 00 + 31 + 20 + phone number. When you are dialing from The Netherlands overseas, the country code is 00-1 for the United States and Canada, 00-61 for Australia, 00-64 for New Zealand, and 00-44 for the United Kingdom. All mobile and land-line phones in Holland are 10 digits long (some help lines and information centers, like the rail inquiry line, have only 8 digits), with most area codes 3 digits and phone numbers 7 digits. Generally, Amsterdam phone numbers are composed of a three-digit area code and a seven-digit phone number. Venturing out into Holland, you'll find most phone numbers in the provinces comprise a four-digit area code and a six-digit phone number.

Directory & Operator Information

To ask directory assistance for telephone numbers outside The Netherlands, dial 0900/8418 (calls are charged at EUR1.15 an inquiry). For numbers within The Netherlands, dial 0900/8008 (calls are charged at EUR1.15).

To reach an international operator, make a collect call, or dial toll-free to a number outside The Netherlands, dial 0800/0410; to speak to a local operator, or make a collect call within The Netherlands, dial 0800/0101.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Long-Distance Services

AT&T, MCI, and Sprint access codes make calling long-distance relatively convenient, but you may find the local access number blocked in many hotel rooms. First ask the hotel operator to connect you. If the hotel operator balks, ask for an international operator, or dial the international operator yourself. One way to improve your odds of getting connected to your long-distance carrier is to travel with more than one company's calling card (a hotel may block Sprint, for example, but not MCI). If all else fails, call from a pay phone.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 0800/022-9111). MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 0800/022-9122). Sprint International Access (PHONE: 0800/022-9119).

Public Phones

Since hotels tend to overcharge for international calls, it is best to use a prepaid telephone card, or telekaart, in a public phone. When making a call, listen for the dial tone (a low-pitched hum), insert a phone card or credit card, then dial the number. Phone cards work only in booths affiliated with the card's company, so Telfort cards work only in orange Telfort booths, found on station platforms, and within towns; KPN cards can be used only in KPN booths, screened by green-edged glass.

Since the increase in cellular phones, the number of phone cells, or phone booths, is decreasing. At every railway station there are pay phones, either in the ticket hall or on the platforms. There are clusters of pay phones around pedestrian squares, but the railway station phones are all Libertel, and you can use only a Libertel card or coins, whereas the pay phones out on the street are KPN Telecom, where you need to use another card. Awkward, yes -- and the reason is that the stations are the property of the NS (Nederlandse Spoorweg, or Dutch Train System), and so they have their own contract with Libertel, whereas public ground is owned by the government, which has a contract with former state firm KPN. The newest KPN phone booths also accept credit cards.

To make a call, lift the receiver, wait until you hear a dial tone, a low-pitched constant hum, then insert the appropriate card or coins. Dial the number, and as soon as your correspondent picks up the receiver, you are connected. To make an international call, dial 00, followed by the country code, then drop the first 0 of the area code (see Area and Country codes, above).

Telfort phone booths and public phones found in bars and cafés accept coins from EUR.10 to EUR2.

Off-peak rates apply Monday-Friday 8 PM-8 AM and all weekend. Phone cards in increments of EUR5, EUR8, and EUR10 (approximately) can be bought from VVVs (local branches of the Netherlands Board of Tourism), post offices, train stations, newsstands, and tobacconists.

Tourist Offices

In Amsterdam

The VVV (Netherlands Board of Tourism) (Spoor 2/Platform 2, Centraal Station, Centrum. PHONE: 0900/400-4040EUR.55perminu, www.holland.com/amsterdam, Stationsplein 10, Central Station. Leidseplein 1, corner Leidsestraat, Leidseplein. Schiphol Airport, Badhoevedorp.) has several offices around Amsterdam. The office in Centraal Station is open daily 8-8; the one on Stationsplein, opposite Centraal Station, is open daily 9-5; on Leidseplein, daily 9-5; and at Schiphol Airport, daily 7-10.

Outside office hours, this line has an extensive voice-response program.

At Home

In Australia: Dutch Consulate General. Mailing address: Box 261, Bondi Junction, NSW, 1355, Australia. PHONE: 029/387-6644, FAX: 029/387-3962, www.holland.com.

In Canada: Netherlands Board of Tourism (31 Adelaide St. E, Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2KS. PHONE: 416/363-1577, FAX: 416/363-1470, www.holland.com).

In New Zealand: Netherlands Board of Tourism. Mailing address: Box 3816, Auckland, 1, New Zealand. PHONE: 09/379-5399, FAX: 09/379-5807, www.holland.com.

In the U.K.: Netherlands Board of Tourism. Mailing address: Box 30783, London, WC2B 6DH, England. PHONE: 0207/539-7950, FAX: 0207/539-7953, www.holland.com.

In the U.S.: Netherlands Board of Tourism (355 Lexington Ave., 21st floor, New York, NY, 10017, USA. PHONE: 888/464-6552 or 212/370-7360, FAX: 212/370-9507, www.holland.com, c/o Northwest Airlines, 11101 Aviation Blvd., Suite 200, Los Angeles, CA, 90045, PHONE: 310/348-9339; FAX: 310/348-9344.).

The Netherlands is at its best when the temperatures climb and cafés and restaurants spill across sidewalks to lure happy groups to dine on canal boats moored alongside. Unfortunately, because such weather is so transient, you could find yourself sharing your sun-dappled experience with too many others for comfort. Because the famous tulip fields bloom during April and May, this is perhaps the best time to visit Holland. Spring is also the driest time of the year. Rain, however, can arrive year-round to dampen your sightseeing so, like the locals, always have an umbrella at the ready as sunny afternoons are often preceded by stormy mornings.

From tulip time (mid-April to mid-May) onward it becomes increasingly difficult to obtain accommodation reservations. In addition, with the approach of summer, museums, galleries, and tourist sights heave with visitors. Some say that if you are making an extended tour of Europe, you should consider scheduling Holland for the beginning or end of your itinerary, saving July and August for exploring less crowded countries.

Weather-wise, the best months for sightseeing are April, May, June, September, and October, when the days are long and the summer crowds have not yet filled the beaches and the museums to capacity. The maritime climate of The Netherlands is very changeable, though, and during these months expect weather ranging from cool to pleasant to wet and windy to hot and surprisingly humid. Eastern and southeastern provinces edge toward a more Continental climate, with warmer summers and colder winters than along the North Sea coast, which can be very cold from December through February and March.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Amsterdam:

January 34-40°F (1-4°C); February 34-41°F (1-5°C); March 38-47°F (3-8°C); April 43-52°F (6-11°C); May 50-61°F (10-16°C); June 56-65°F (13-18°C); July 59-70°F (15-21°C); August 59-68°F (15-20°C); September 56-65°F (13-18°C); October 49-56°F (9-13°C); November 41-47°F (5-8°C); December 36-41°F (2-5°C).

Holidays

Nationale feestdagen (national holidays) are New Year's Day (January 1); Good Friday (April 9 in 2004, March 25 in 2005); Easter Sunday and Monday (April 11 and 12 in 2004, March 27 and 28 in 2005); Koninginnedag (Queen's Day, April 30); Remembrance Day (May 4); Liberation Day (May 5); Ascension Day (May 20 in 2004, May 5 in 2005); Whitsunday (Pentecost) and Monday (May 30 and 31 in 2004, May 15 and 16 in 2005); and Christmas (December 25 and 26). During these holidays, banks and schools are closed; many shops, restaurants, and museums are closed. Some businesses close for May 4, Remembrance Day, when throughout the Netherlands there is a two-minute silent pause from 8-8:02 pm. Even traffic stops. Take note and please respect this custom. For information on these and other holidays, see also "On the Calendar" in the Destination chapter in the front of this book.