Although its name certainly does not refer to the soap opera, its regular clientele of showbiz types and football heroes dangling arm candy does sometimes resemble a casting call for a reality TV version of that show. Hence, although it's not required, you might want to dress up a bit. The interior is certainly fanciful: the Art Deco starting point blurs into an Asian frenzy of rice-paper umbrellas and Buddhas. In the summer, you should try for a table on the "dream terrace" set in a majestic Golden Age courtyard. Chef K. Y. Lee's menu, which is full of Cantonese, Thai, Malaysian, and Vietnamese culinary classics, is as ambitious as the decor and bears such enticing names as Phoenix and Dragon and Secret of the Spicy Ox. A particular success is his Drunken Prawns, and they smartly live up to their billing: jumbo shrimps marinated in an intoxicating broth of Chinese herbs and Xiaoxing wine.