Up until a decade or two ago, eating in Amsterdam was tinged with the flavor of Calvinism. Happily, today the feasting draws on all corners of the globe. International eating trends now make it routine to encounter a sushi shack, a soup shop, a Thai take-out joint, or a hipster lounge. And, as if to compensate for the long drought, many of the city's former industrial buildings are currently being transformed into distinctive or trendy dining establishments. The term "New Dutch Cuisine" has come to mean anything recently brought to Amsterdam's kitchens by a new generation of young chefs. Their creations -- think cappuccino-textured pea soup with chanterelles and pancetta -- have finally "turned on the style" and succeeded in taking the starch (literally) out of the old mainstays.

If you're the type who likes to make your own discoveries, here are a few tips. In general, consider the tourist traps around Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein, the Damrak, and the Red Light District as just that. Cheap global eats are concentrated in the De Pijp district. A broad selection of middle-range eateries can be found around Nieuwmarkt, the Jordaan, and Utrechtsestraat. And to find posher purveyors, head to Reguliersdwarsstraat or the "Nine Streets" areas. Some fancier eats can be found in the Gouden Bocht neighborhood, and smart, chic dining is now spilling into the areas east of the Amstel and around Central Station. Remember that the Dutch eat early. In fact, most of the city's kitchens close by 10. And since Amsterdam is a casual sort of town, "jacket and tie" means more "if you feel like it" than "required."