When Algerian-born Frenchman Jean-Christophe Royer opened his canal-side eettempel (eating temple) in the 1980s, it was almost immediately lauded for both its William Katz-designed interior, which evokes this artist's acclaimed ballet scenery, and Royer's own culinary vision, which embellishes French haute cuisine with Arabic and African influences. In short: Christophe's cooking awards are well deserved. The ever-changing menu -- always loaded with vegetarian options -- may include entrées such as ragout of lobster with cocoa beans, pimientos, and coriander, or sweetbreads of veal in a sauce of vin jaune (a deep golden wine from the Jura region in France) with white cabbage and chanterelles. Reservations essential. Jacket required.