For decades, this has been a safe and elegant -- albeit somewhat cramped -- place to indulge in that spicy smorgasbord of the gods, the Indonesian rice table. Stay alert when the waitstaff point out the hotness of the dishes; otherwise you might stretch your wallet with the downing of gallons of antidotal witbier (a sweet local wheat beer). Tempo's more informal neighbor, Tujuh Maret (Utrechtsestraat 73, 020/427-9865), offers a cheaper but no less taste bud-tantalizing alternative (with takeout as an option). Reservations essential.