For when only the poshest and most classically elegant will do, take your primped-up selves here. To the tinkling of a grand piano, solicitous waiters, knowledgeable sommeliers, towering dessert trolleys, and preparation carts all waltz together in a setting of towering palms, tall candelabras, and shimmering chandeliers. Even more delicious is the Excelsior's mouthwatering view over the Amstel River toward either the Muntplein and its medieval tower on one side or the Music Theater on the other. If you have not already guessed, the kitchen here is traditional French. But the inspired chef, Jean-Jacques Menanteau, also knows some twists, such as a sublime lobster bisque and a grilled turbot with shrimp and Parmesan risotto. The truly adventurous should opt for his fixed-price menu gastronomique, which will feature not only seasonal specialties (think truffles) but occasionally also the acclaimed reveries he creates from such unprepossessing meats as liver and kidney. Rest assured, there are four more fixed-priced menus to choose from. Jacket and tie.