Traditionally Swiss, cheese fondue has long been the party dish of choice for the Dutch, and this place offers a beautiful Old World setting to enjoy this or another of many cheese delights. The menu documents fondue's evolution and infinite global variants, offering such options as the communal deep-frying of meats and the shared steaming of dim sum. Of fundamental importance: the bar is fully stocked with a variety of grease-cutting choices. Reservations essential.