This dark and woody café, as evocative as a Jan Steen 17th-century interior, has been serving the same cheese fondue for decades and for good reason: it's just about perfect, especially if you enhance digestion -- and the frolic factor -- with plenty of orders from the fully stocked bar. Like the Dutch, you, too, may be inspired to establish cheese fondue as your own celebratory meal of choice. Reservations essential.