A posh pioneer in the Eastern Docklands in the harbor's former power station, Panama serves authentic dishes from around the world, with a special emphasis on fish. Although the original 19th-century industrial architecture is retained, design bureau VASD has brought the space up to date in furnishings. Plan to continue your evening in the attached nightspot, where the warm use of red, blue, and gold evokes a vision of an old-fashioned jazz club but one where the far-out programming includes genre-expanding circus acts, big bands, and tango combos. Reservations essential.