The "Five Flies" is a rambling dining institution that takes up five adjoining Golden Age houses. Yet the densely evocative Golden Age vibe -- complete with bona fide Rembrandt etchings, wooden jenever (Dutch gin) barrels, crystal and armor collections, and an endless array of old-school bric-a-brac -- came into being only in 1939. Brass plaques on the chairs, although listing such past visitors as Orson Welles, Walt Disney, and Goldie Hawn, do not tell of its vast popularity -- you'll find both business folk clinching a deal in a private nook and busloads of tourists who have dibs on complete sections: book accordingly. You do end up paying extra for the Five Flies vibe thanks to an overpriced menu of new Dutch cuisine, which emphasizes local, fresh, and often organic ingredients in everything from wild boar to purely vegetarian dishes. Lack of choice is not an issue here: the size of the menu, the set menus, the wine list, and the flavored jenever are -- like the decor -- all of epic proportions. Jacket and tie.