This excellent neighborhood brown café ("brown" because of its ancient woody, nicotine-stained nature) has a long history -- reflected in its tile tableaux and century-old fittings -- of being packed with boisterous drinkers and diners. The Dutch fare is of the bold meat-potato-vegetable variety always wonderfully prepared and sometimes even with an occasional adventurous diversion, such as the sea bass tastily swimming in a sauce of fennel and spinach. At lunchtime there is a menu of sandwiches and warm snacks. Reservations essential.