In the shadow of the golden lyre that tops the Concertgebouw (Concert Building), this institution has been serving musicians and concertgoers alike for almost a century and a recent renovation has sought to maintain this tradition. You can come at almost any hour, for either a drink or a full meal. The appropriately classical, dimly lighted Old Dutch interior -- comfortable as an old shoe -- is paneled with dark wood and the tables are covered with Oriental rugs. Aside from such relative oddities as ris de veau (veal sweetbreads) with orange and green-pepper sauce, the tournedos- and schnitzel-rich menu leans toward tradition, with a sole meunière being the house specialty. We can only hope that it maintains this tradition when it reopens in early 2004 after a long renovation.