Getting here requires going west of the Jordaan, and beyond the Westergasfabriek cultural complex. Like that neighbor (which began its days as a gas factory), this spot is an industrial monument -- for a century, this plant pumped water from coastal dunes. Now, under a sky-high ceiling, one can dine on honestly rendered French and Dutch dishes in a bustling atmosphere favored by families and larger groups. If it's too noisy for you, seek refuge on the peaceful terrace.