This former garage is now a brasserie of red-plush seating and kaleidoscopically mirrored walls -- handy for local glitterati who like to see and be seen. This is the home of the celebrity "Crazy Chef" Joop Braakhekke, whose busy schedule of TV appearances necessitates his leaving his "kitchen of the world" in other -- ironically more capable -- hands. The food is invariably excellent and uses French haute cuisine as the basis on which to embrace the world. Particularly sublime is the Flemish hennepotje, a starter pâté of chicken, snails, and rabbit, and the Moroccan pastilla d'anguille, which seals a mélange of duck liver and eel in a thin pastry dough. Although champagnes, fine wines, and caviar accent the essential poshness of it all, the daily set lunch menu is quite reasonably priced. They now also have a sister establishment, En Pluche (471-4695) next door serving "global street foods" and fancy cocktails. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie.