In the world of culinary imperialism, the Chinese have their formula bolted down. And indeed this massive and massively overlighted restaurant is like thousands of others the world over in ignoring the setting in favor of the flavor within their encyclopedic Cantonese menu. As a hangover-curing bonus, they serve dim sum from noon until 5 PM daily and until 10 PM on Sunday. Clincher of its respected status: the majority of its patrons are Chinese themselves.