The Spui offers several more old-world-evocative eateries, but Esprit (part of the clothing chain of the same name) -- with its clean and modern "aluminum design" interior, and windows overlooking the bustling square -- does reach out to the homesick by offering contemporary American sandwiches, burgers, pastas, pizzas, salads, and children's menus. Yankee Doodle Sandwich (crisp roll with pastrami, mustard, mayonnaise, and grilled bell peppers), anyone? Reservations not accepted.